Project 91 "SS" 3400/5spd

[woody90gtz]

Yes, engaged meaning engaged with the flywheel and foot off the pedal. Pushing the pedal disengages.

[3400tZ]

I would be curious to hear a video of that noise. Clutch engaged noise when in neutral and that goes away when you push the clutch pedal in are "normal" to me. I've never seen a cavalier/beretta with an aftermarket clutch that doesn't rattle like crazy at idle. I've noticed that releasing the clutch pedal slowly usually help the noise being more quiet for some reason. It also seems to be worst when the clutch is hot. I'm thinking it have something to do with the throw out bearing or input shaft rattling. Yes, it makes it sounds like the engine is falling apart. I have a spec stage 2+ myself and it does make all kind of shitty rattle noises.

Anyway, just saying before you start tearing into it. If you know that noise I'm talking about and you know yours is worse then please ignore my reply

[MY91GT(Z)]

i have the same in my car n some times it drives me nuts but it doesnt effect deliverability at all so im not to worriedbout it all that much.

[3X00-Modified]

I can understand his concern though because if the noise wasn't there before then why is it now if all he did was replace bearings in the trans. It's worth double checking, and I also can't understand why these transmissions are so noisy at idle, but the only one I worked on was quite under load and motion, it only made noise in neutral with the clutch out.

[woody90gtz]

It's not just the input shaft rattle. It's something else. Definitely. Probably won't get in to it until Thursday. Tmo is the anniversary of the wife's first date...so I'm gonna let the POS sit in the garage. I'm done for the night.

[woody90gtz]

Pretty sure I found the problem. All the symptoms would make sense. The plate on the end of the case has oil slingers for the input & output shaft bearings. I think the input shaft bearing retainer is rubbing on the oil slinger...there is what looks like a fresh shiny spot on the slinger that matches the retainer. That would make noise in neutral and in gear, and it would be quiet with the clutch disengaged without the input shaft spinning. It would also still be functional aside from the noise. Maybe the new input bearing was just a hair thicker than the old one. I dunno. Gonna have to wait for a detent cover to come in to reassemble. I thought I had one more around but I cant find it if I do. Bitch of it is...had I known what the issue was, that plate could have been removed and the slinger clearanced without even pulling the trans out of the car!

Master cylinder came in from Rock Auto, too. Looks like I'll have to swap the Beretta reservoir on it to clear the hood. Luckily the pins appear to be the same arrangement.

[woody90gtz]

Master was kind of a bitch to bleed with four ports, but now it's good to go. Let the injectors and rails soak in Seafoam overnight since it wasn't running worth a crap. Siphoned all the gas out. Found a leak at one the injectors too so I put new o-rings in all of them. Got it all back together, just waiting for my clutch detent cover and I can stab the trans back in.








And if the POS still isnt good to go yet I'm throwing the 383 in! haha

[3X00-Modified]

I'm curious to see your brake pressure change... If it's this simple then I will probably do the same thing, if I can find a version that bolts to the ABS module.

[woody90gtz]

Yeah, I looked online and found that the newer Luminas (like 95) have an ABS option that looks identical to the Beretta unit (other than the bore and the proportioning.) Should be a direct swap just like this one was. Your car will still be front-heavy with the bias because of your calipers, but I'll bet the Lumina master is still better than the disc/drum Beretta one. 500psi is way too low for a caliper.

[3X00-Modified]

what amount of force did you have on the pedal to get 500PSI? I'm guessing quite a bit to get 1400 at the front.

[woody90gtz]

That was actually Tiffany in the car while I read the gauges. She gave the pedal the same pump on both front & rear, so it can't be that much. Normal operating pressure of disc brake systems is 1000-1500psi so that's about right up front. My Camaro is 1100psi without no booster. Beretta was about 500psi up front without the engine running, so the stock booster is roughly 3:1. I'm curious as to what the truck puts out now with the hydroboost.

According to the math, the bigger bore master should drop the front psi slightly with the same amount of input force because the pedal pressure is being spread over more sq in on the master piston. In your case your brakes will still create more clamping pressure than stock because the line pressure is multiplied by more caliper piston sq in. And the rear pressure should at least double I'd guess. I will post what I find out on mine.

[woody90gtz]

Got to work on it last night and got the trans done and ready to go in. If there's something wrong with it this time maybe I'll pull a Robert and have someone else do it for me. haha Hoping to have it done and running this weekend, but I only have Saturday to work on it...and then Thurs-Sun I'll be in Tennessee and Mon-Tues is a road trip to Pittsburgh for work.

[MY91GT(Z)]

so u have tomorrow n wednesday to get it done.for.your trip to Tennessee:)

[woody90gtz]

haha

Fat chance. Taking the Cruze down...gonna see if we can hit 50mpg.

[woody90gtz]

It lives again. Gonna get Tiffwad to hit the brake pedal while it's running so I can get a psi reading on the calipers before getting it off the jackstands. Gonna drive the bad boy tomorrow and make sure it's good for my inspection appointment. It's a year overdue. haha