January 2010 Project Begins (Raspberry)

[Money pit Beretta]

ARP's rust?
What's the long story? We have to wait too.
It was 51 here today. I was able to wash my car, but had to wait on some gaskets. In other words nothing was even started.

Hey Isaac, I went to GM and got the the O-ring. The guy didn't even look up the part number. He just ran and got it. He did ask if I wanted the other one and I got that too.

It will be too cold to work outside until Wednesday. I've got time for a story.

[3X00-Modified]

Nice work.

Now I'm going to have to spend more freakin' money on this stupid little car it seems if I want to stay a step ahead.

Rodney's going to freak, but it looks like Ben is going to be preparing a set of heads for a trip to Canada.

Just remember which one is spending the money and which one is doing the work.... I think "that" guy would be further ahead in the end...

I wont be anywhere near you though in the end... as noted my setup is not a n/a animal, so I don't think the playing field is quite level there.

[3X00-Modified]

ARP's rust?
What's the long story? We have to wait too.
It was 51 here today. I was able to wash my car, but had to wait on some gaskets. In other words nothing was even started.

Hey Isaac, I went to GM and got the the O-ring. The guy didn't even look up the part number. He just ran and got it. He did ask if I wanted the other one and I got that too.

It will be too cold to work outside until Wednesday. I've got time for a story.

Installed in 07








Run for that year and winter... That's when I split with the ex and then bought the pink car in 08, I then pulled the motor out of the red car and did cam bearings and a cam in it, and springs, and left the heads alone... There was some "rust" on the threads when I pulled it, minimal suface, which I think came from the moly coat left behind when installed. Didn't think anything of it.







Pulled the motor apart this year and my head alignment collars got stuck in my heads, and there was a ton of rust or build up on the base threads of ALL the outer studs... Now I'm not sure if this is from molly coat that was on them there, and then condensation from being run in the winter, and also sitting in the pink car outside from Oct-Dec of 08 with weather, before getting a garage... I'm really not sure what caused it, but this is the end result after cleaning them up. I'm waiting to hear from Ben on if they should be replaced.

[Money pit Beretta]

I see and feel your fear on that. I sure would change them if it were my engine. ARP's are very strong, but you know me, I live in fear of something going wrong. Did you put any oil on them before you put them in?
I guess grease would be better than oil for that.

[Barry]

I would still use them.

[3X00-Modified]

I would still use them.

Thats where you and I differ.

Ben at WOT-Tech said he can tell just by the pics that I shouldn't use them.

I'm running a large cam, MLS headgaskets, and a 100 shot if not a 150 shot and soon to be direct port nitrous on this. You don't compromise the head bolts unless you want to be doing it again.

Put it this way, $60 now to ensure the longevity of my setup is worth it rather than seeing one of these NOT put down equal clamping force and blow something to hell.

I still feel that once you get a bit older and get over this build it quick and cheap and beat the F out of it phase, you'll start to realize why I do what I do, and why others spend a bit more time planning and working with what they are building rather than just throwing it together to try and have a faster car than your buddy down the road.

MPB, I can use 30w to install them and the torque spec changes, But I think if I just coat the base threads in oil, and then make sure to give the shaft a quick coat of paint, then I should be set... I was also thinking of using antiseize since that will not rust where the molly coat could have promoted the rust by whats in it.

I also don't need the molly coat on the base threads either you only need some sort of lubricant on the torquing side... I could actually use silicone if I wanted, but since they dont hit the water jacket its really not necessary.

[Barry]

Im just here to fluster you LOL.

Don't take me so seriously

[3X00-Modified]

Im just here to fluster you LOL.

Don't take me so seriously

More often than not you are serious though.

That whole text only thing screwes with sarcasm aspect so its hard to tell what is serious and what isn't.

[3X00-Modified]

Just picked up a new set of LIMG's and a pair of 04 3400 exhaust gaskets.

I have a set of lowers, but I figured for 88 bux I can get a new set and not have to worry about a reused set failing on me. The dealer I go to matched my prices as close as he could to GM-Parts Direct. They wanted 107 with shipping, and he got them for 110. I prefer to give them business too if he can give me a decent price.

It also came with another set of Metal uppers for the 3500... I already have 2 sets of those... lol.

[Barry]

I usually use the quick reply, so no smilies to show my intentions.

But I do joke around 90% of the time.

I probably would not use those studs

[99GaGT3X00]

a couple of those ones we looked at weren't that bad but id still buy new ones. i would be worried the whole time if i used them again.

[Money pit Beretta]

I was thinking more in the lines of putting some grease on the shaft part. I'm not really sure if paint will stick to the molly coat.

[3X00-Modified]

The threads weren't the issue though... its just the shaft, so all I would have to do is clean it and then tape off the threads and coat it with some black paint. Done.

[Money pit Beretta]

Hope that paint sicks.

[3X00-Modified]

I have prep that would make it stick.