88 2.8 Corsica rough idle hesitation pinging

[Rettax3]

Not to mention the extreme PITA of having to deal with the front mount bracket. Of course, now you can just buy them from someone for ~$150 (or less , but I am tired of offering that).

If you do decide on going for the 3X00 top-end swap onto your car, there are a few things I would recommend.

First, tap the water-pipe outlet for the heater core (at the back of the lower intake manifold near the thermostat) for the 2.8/3.1 quick-disconnect fitting -there is a recent thread where I've mentioned this to another member too, and it will save you some welding/fabrication work. Those disconnect fittings are available brand new for pretty cheap, which is good because it is almost impossible to remove them in one piece).

Second, be sure to get the power-steering pressure line (if not the entire pump assembly) from the donor car, those steel lines are a PITA to re-work, and the line from the 2.8 will not fit a 3X00 manifold correctly.

Third, be sure to buy either the Dorman steel LIMG set, or the Fel-Pro steel set -do NOT buy the plastic $#!t that has been pawned-off on us, as it melts, cracks, deforms, etc, and risks dumping coolant into your oil thereby damaging or destroying the entire engine (the 2.8 and 3.1 MPFI V-6s never had this problem, as GM didn't realize they could save a nickel on this part yet, and the clearances between the heads and the LIM are much smaller on the older engines too). Victor Reinz makes a steel set too, but I've never seen their set (yet), but I know the other two makes are good quality and do the job right.

Fourth, I'm not sure what you will have to do with the push-rods, as the MPFI engines have the shorter non-roller lifters, and any 3X00 engine worth using the top-end from will have roller-rockers (instead of pivot-ball, like the 2.8/3.1 MPFI and earlier 'M' code 3100s), but let us know what you've found that works if you decide to go this way.

You will definitely feel a performance difference with a newer top end though (I actually built my '90 turbo 'Retta backwards to this, because I wanted to keep the 3.1 LG5 turbo intake manifold, for style rather than performance, and wasn't worried about the older restrictive intake/heads because, well, it is a turbo-charged engine and works well enough for me with forced induction and a decent port-matching job). Have fun, and keep us posted!

[88corsica5spd28]

I've got a 3400 but i'm not sure what year it is. A friend gave it to me for parts for my Alero which i sold.

It's locked so i'll probably rebuild the heads and get 3400 pushrods. That is, if they'll fit the 2.8 block...

[Money pit Beretta]

3400's are rollers(just FYI), your 2.8 is flat tappet. At one time there was a PDF on a top end swap.
I ment 3X00 top end and not the 3400 swap(something that is asked about alot). Been a long week!

[88corsica5spd28]

I'm not going to put the whole motor in, there's a massive hole in the side of the block. Just heads and intake + whatever else i need.

EDIT: nevermind... i get you now.

[88corsica5spd28]

Something in the power steering system blew out and it won't hold fluid anymore... it's parked for now.


It runs like a top after steam cleaning it though.

[Money pit Beretta]

Damn that sucks, well report what you find.
So no misfires after the steam clean? Kick butt.

There is a possible top end swap on the 60 degree site. Should be a good amount of info there on that. There are a few "masters" over there, so that may be the place to be if you are going to do it.

[88corsica5spd28]

Yeah I'm probably going to have some questions...

[Rettax3]

It is really pretty straight-forward, relative to any other top-end replacement. You might have some issues because you are starting off with the 2.8's smaller cylinders, but use 2.8 gaskets -I don't think the 3400 valves are so big that they will interfere with the cylinder walls... Other than that, just go over what I already mentioned in my previous post -the push-rods are your biggest concern. Oh, you will probably also have to modify your throttle-cable linkage. Simplest way is to get a '95-'96 Beretta/Corsica throttle cable and 3100 throttle-body, and re-use the throttle-plate shaft on the 3400's throttle-body. And you will either have to block-off your EGR system or buy/build some sort of adapter for it. Also, being a pre-'90 car, there are some issues with your fuel-lines (3400s use GM's quick-disconnects, '89 and older L-Bodies use O-ring double-flared fittings). You cannot use a 2.8 injector-rail on a 3400 LIM, just be sure to keep your original injectors if you are not updating the ECM too. See? what questions could you possibly have... It is a piece of cake.

[88corsica5spd28]

Thanks... you guys rule.


I think the PS leak is coming from the rack. It grumbles a lot and that's either bad rack or bad pump. The thing blowing something out kinda rules out the pump... don't you think?

[Money pit Beretta]

Yeah it may be a bad rack. A power steering pump will growl when the bearing is bad(but it will do it all the time). Just be sure to bleed the pump after you fix what's wrong. If you don't it will burn up(cavitation from air bubbles).

[88corsica5spd28]

Will do.


Edit: and by grumbling I mean there's a vibration when you turn the steering wheel at low speeds

[Money pit Beretta]

Oh, rack for sure then.

[Rettax3]

...Unless it is just low on fluid from losing it. If the fluid level is low, it will whine, grumble, and vibrate through the steering wheel. Very possibly you 'just' have a leaking pressure-hose and consequently a low fluid level causing this. I did the hose on my '89 GTU last year, and my '90 Yellow Indy is needing one soon too (only leaks fluid when the wheel is turned to the stop so far, so not desperate for it yet). The line only costs ~$14, I think I got my last one from Rock Auto for about $10. It is a PITA to swap though, and the line I bought needed a couple of minor tweaks in a couple of bends. Plan to spend a few hours cussing at your car and getting P/S fluid all over yourself, then take a few minutes to bleed it out like Money Pit says, or plan on buying a new pump or rebuilding the one you have...

[88corsica5spd28]

It was grumbling before the leak happened, and the pump growled when turning the wheel even when it was full and freshly bled so it needs a rack anyway.

Ill put it on a lift Monday, and find the leak. Being in an auto mechanics class rules.

[88corsica5spd28]

It's fixed... the line going to the loop had a hole rubbed in it from the swaybar... rerouted it with some high pressure rubber hose and clamps. No more leak.

After a full bleed the whine & grumbles are still there though.