Neon Rear Disc Brake Upgrade.

[Cliff8928]

Yes, but with our cars, going from a tiny 10" rotor that has done its job well, up to a 12" rotor designed to stop a full size Impala and a Vette caliper, I think that's about as far as I NEED to go with what my car will be doing, and what 90% of others will be doing on this site... Very few build a car like Weba and may possibly use all that braking power... But for me with the setup I have planned it will cover all the bases by far. And there is such a thing as overkill with brakes when you get to the point of adding 30lbs of rotating weight due to such large rotors...

hell this is my change...

Knuckles
Stock - 9.7 lbs
N-body - 4.1 lbs

Hubs
Stock - 5.4 lbs
N-body - 7.2 lbs

Rotors
Stock - 11.6 lbs
F-body - 18.7 lbs

14lbs alone on the rotors... That's a big increase and will hurt acceleration some. People get excited about removing 1-2lbs of rotating weight... this will add 7 to each wheel, and who knows how much to the rear.

If you really wanted to do an 11" setup, I do have the stock calipers and brackets from my Alero with 17k on them. It does weigh significantly less and I could tell that especially when I went from a setup with 11" brakes with 205/65R15 tires and 15x6 wheels to 12" brakes with 235/45R17 tires and 17x8 wheels. Especially with a stock 'lil ecotec pulling it.

[Red_Bra_Black_GTZ]

what is the oem 'lock to lock' number?

[3X00-Modified]

ranges from 2.5 to 3 I think for my year and model... Its not a huge increase but its the tightest rack available for our cars.

Cliff, I may start with just the 11" N-body brakes if I want to save some ching off the bat, since I bought ALL of that when I got the parts, so I have the knuckles and abutment brackets AND calipers... the aluminum versions of everything... So we'll see how it goes. If I get the Neon setup moving quick then I'll probably just do the N-body stuff to begin with and go F-body later if necessary.

[JeffD]

what model had the 2.25 rack?
once you use the neon setup will you need to use different e-brake cables?

[3X00-Modified]

When I fully complete my setup I think it will be FAR superior to the factory setup and mantain full function on the e-brake side with all factory parts... Everything I'll be using will be able to be replaced over the counter with no modifications necessary before install.

To further answer your question, No, for the beretta models, I think they are all the same or similar cable, and should work perfectly fine. If you look at the Neon swap on Jbody.org they have a google video of how to use the stock cable with the e-brake actuator.

And I think it was a 89 GT that had that rack... I would have to check my sources again... I think napa listed the number of turns on it.

[Barry]

Balling.
Im next

[3X00-Modified]

Updated with Finished pics, and a pic of the part on the car you need to grind down to fit.

[weba]

Looks great, only part i do not like is that there are washers behind the rotor.. I'd get part machined for that, or space out the hub if possible.

Are the any vented rear discs offered for Neons?

[3X00-Modified]

Mine is using washers at the moment but I'm having a spacer made. Yeah you can space the bearing if you want too.

There aren't any vented setups for the neon but you can do the 11" setup for a different dodge car. I can't remember which car at the moment tho.

[Cliff8928]

I think some of the daytonas and lebarons (with factory 16" wheels) had those larger rear brakes.

[3X00-Modified]

I think some of the daytonas and lebarons (with factory 16" wheels) had those larger rear brakes.

Your correct, it was the daytona and lebaron... the only issue is you need to flip their bracket from the left to the right and also upside down to fit the bearing, SO the caliper sits at like 7 or 8 o'clock on the wheel... rather than above 9 or 3... Some people don't like the look of the caliper being down low.

Didn't I post pictures and info about that in here?

Yes, yes I did

If you really desire it, you can also look into the 11.2" Daytona Vented disc setup... No real write up on it but its very similar modification needed to make it fit.

Only downside is apearance, the caliper hangs off at either 4-5 oclock or 7-8 depending on which side you put it on... A caliper hanging below 3 and 9 looks rather funny... this was done to minimize the amount of clearance needed in the bracket.

Images of bracket, Notice orientation of the bearing holes, wide on top narrow on bottom for the bearing so how they are orientated you can get an idea of where the caliper would sit.

That's even a pic of a L-body rear axle with that setup on it.

[Barry]

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/92-part ... 08398.html

DAMN! tHE WHOLE BACK SETUP, ALREADY MACHINED FOR 200! WITH ROTORS!

I paid 170 for everything, minus rotors, calipers, and parking brake stuff.

[3X00-Modified]

yeah I paid 150 for my brackets caliper cores, and full e-brake setups... I then had to get them machined and get new calipers and rotors and pads.

Sometimes you get lucky... other times you just get what you can find at the time

[woody90gtz]

I just emailed the Jbody guy to see if he still has his brakes. If so, they're mine.

[Barry]

DO IT!

You will probably beat me to it