Anyone ever have an Auto Trans do this?

[3X00-Modified]

3t40 with shifts controlled by the computer? What? I don't think so.

[Money pit Beretta]

What controls the electric shift solenoids then?

[Beretta1234567]

Just to clarify because I just realized we might be thinking about two different transmissions.
Is the 3T40 the 3 SPD auto? because thats what I have.
Or is it the 4 speed Auto?

I know my 96 Beretta is a 4 Speed Auto and is electronic solenoid shift, no cable. It has way more wires on the plugs than the 90 beretta.
But My 90 Beretta has the kickback cable.
Either way, I thought the 3 speed auto was fluid controlled shifting? The 3 extra wires were just to tell the ECM what gear it was in, not to control the gears it should be in...? I am going to look in the book at the transmission wiring later to check if I read it wrong.

[scd88ga]

Just to clarify because I just realized we might be thinking about two different transmissions.
Is the 3T40 the 3 SPD auto? because thats what I have.
Or is it the 4 speed Auto?

I know my 96 Beretta is a 4 Speed Auto and is electronic solenoid shift, no cable. It has way more wires on the plugs than the 90 beretta.
But My 90 Beretta has the kickback cable.
Either way, I thought the 3 speed auto was fluid controlled shifting? The 3 extra wires were just to tell the ECM what gear it was in, not to control the gears it should be in...? I am going to look in the book at the transmission wiring later to check if I read it wrong.

Yes, you are correct on your 3T40 being a 3 speed auto and having the detent/kickdown/tv/whatever you want to call it cable! Everything else you said about it is correct as well.

You are also correct about your 96 4 speed and the solenoids!

The only solenoid your 3T40 has is the one for the TCC Torque Convertor Control aka "Lockup".

I think that should straighten out the confusion in this thread.

[Beretta1234567]

yay, ok thanks.
I just found the keys for it, here is a photo of my trans cable from my broken indy.
Its held on with just a metric 10 bolt. I remembered taking that bolt out and there was a loop on the end of the cable and a hook coming out of the transmission. When I worked on my 87 Beretta.

I also added a photo of my 87 Beretta trans that literally ground its internals to pieces (metal shavings and pieces everywhere); it just happened one day, always had fresh fluid and filter on it. Not sure what caused it.
Still have it laying around because I'm waiting to turn all my scrap metal in at one time, I realized I can use it as an example because its already apart.
Anyways, I do not see a way to adjust this inside it. I am guessing its on the end of the cable, and you just turn the end like a screw until its at the desired point like the Tie-Rod Ends for steering alignment?

[3X00-Modified]

adjust the end thats on your TB where it connects to the linkage there.

And MPB as SCD said there is only one solenoid in the 3t40 and thats a TCC lockup. That's it, 94+ was a 4t60e which yes had all electronic shift solenoids, but part of the shifting is also still mechanical control. The 4t60e gets it's shift command from the ECU but the line pressure is mechanically controlled with a VAC modulator. The 4t65e and 4t40 were the ones that had fully electronic valve bodies that controlled shifting and line pressure.

[Beretta1234567]

adjust the end thats on your TB where it connects to the linkage there.

And MPB as SCD said there is only one solenoid in the 3t40 and thats a TCC lockup. That's it, 94+ was a 4t60e which yes had all electronic shift solenoids, but part of the shifting is also still mechanical control. The 4t60e gets it's shift command from the ECU but the line pressure is mechanically controlled with a VAC modulator. The 4t65e and 4t40 were the ones that had fully electronic valve bodies that controlled shifting and line pressure.

Finally found directions on here, unfortunately I can only click search once every 5 minutes, so it took a while to find it.
I basically unlock it, pull it out, have someone press the peddle fully to the floor, push it in, then release and its locked.
I'm glad its an outpatient procedure. I can do it and forget about it, hopefully.

Do you think it is possible to adjust this shift cable to make it shift sooner?
Flooring it means pulling which makes it downshift which I believe keeps in in 2nd gear to long, so I should loosen the cable a little bit? I'm thinking an extra millimeter of length maybe?

I'll try it either today in the evening or tomorrow, and report results.

[Money pit Beretta]

Man was I off. I need to look at my old Chilton's before I open my mouth.
There it is, the TV cable. Sure wish I would have know that when I had the 90GT, I could have lowered the shift point at WOT.
Anyway here is what the book said. Rotate the throttle lever at the TB, do not use the pedal.
1. With the engine off, depress and hold the rest tab at the engine end of the TV cable
2.Move the slider until it stops against the fitting.
3.release the rest tab.
4.rotate the throttle lever to it's full travel.


As a side note my 95 is the first car I've ever had without a TV cable. Strange, I have only adjusted one once. That was because I put a carb on my 83 z28 that had Cross Fire. I missed out on alot of control of my shifts.

[Money pit Beretta]

Sorry to GHOSTOWLGRID, I should have checked the book before I posted.
Also to KOOTS, he hit the nail on the head and I missed by a 1,000 miles. He knew what he was talking about and you can see that I don't. As someone that grew up on carbs I don't know how I missed the TV cable on the 90.

[Beretta1234567]

Those are the directions I found. I tried them on the car this morning before they took it to work. I want to test it myself to see if it changes anything.
The cable sleeve position was the same at the end from what I saw. I am guessing that maybe I have burned or sticking clutch plates.
But I have been reading and burned clutch plates/disks in the auto transmission causes it to not enter gears after it exits gears. I'm assuming that maybe the transmission is partially plugged or has sticking clutch plates.
I will probably change the oil one more time (I already have a new filter) and run it a while longer before trying any transmission flush fluids.
But then I do not know how to make the transmission flush all the old fluid out completely. I could try a hose into a 5 gallon tub of Dextron III fully synthetic plugged into the inlet port where the filter goes. And a catch bin under the car.
I checked the fluid a while back when the car got up to standard operating temperature all over after a 50 mile drive or so, and it was idling for about 20 minutes before I checked anything, and the transmission had the proper fluid level, so I cam rule out lack of fluid that is keeping it out of 3rd gear, right?

Oh and @ moneypitberetta; that is fine, we are all here to toss ideas around and learn. I have made plenty of mistakes myself, but I would have never learned if I have not tried doing the things I did in the past.
I am glad you were saying about the solenoids about the 4 speed auto, now I know what to look for if that one ever acts up in any way. my 96 recently got about 100,000 miles on it, its defiantly overdue for a transmission oil change, I plan on finding the solenoids and maybe looking if I can buy spares.

[Money pit Beretta]

Guess I lost my mind. I swear that there are three small black switches that are rectangles on the 3T40 valve body. That is what I had go out on mine. You can see them when you drop the pan. The next time I changed the fluid after the shop replaced the switches I saw two new ones and one old one.
Also I have never had the side pan off of the 4T60e. So it's not like I'm remembering that.

[Beretta1234567]

I am intrested now.
The photos I put are from an 87 Beretta 3T40, and if I have time I will take the pan back off of it if it isnt off already and post a photo.
Maybe there is some kind of solenoide, I do not know.
I do know that there are pressure sensors that tell the ECM, what gear the Trans is in.
Not like it needs those signals anyways, the 87 Trans never had them, in 89 they were added to the 3T40 in the berettas and such...

Even though i'm learning how these things work, and its getting easier because I keep fixing these things, I still think they make cars too complicated for no reason. Lol

[3X00-Modified]

Guess I lost my mind. I swear that there are three small black switches that are rectangles on the 3T40 valve body. That is what I had go out on mine. You can see them when you drop the pan. The next time I changed the fluid after the shop replaced the switches I saw two new ones and one old one.
Also I have never had the side pan off of the 4T60e. So it's not like I'm remembering that.

There is no visible valve body on a 3t40 or 4t60e from the bottom.... Both are on the side. you have to remove the wheel and drop the sub-frame to do any valve body mods on either of these transmissions. The only things you'll get to from below is the shift accumulator pistons and one of the band pistons as well as the filter and whatnot.

There are also no switches inside the trans to tell it what gear its in, that is all done by the range switch on the top you select D and that's what It knows... 3t40's did not track 1st 2nd or 3rd gear like the 4t60e does since its not electronically controlled. Seriously you can put this trans on a carb'd engine with no ECU and it would run perfectly fine Its a mechanical shifting transmission you would just lack the TCC lockup unless you put it on a switch. The other "pressure switches" you might see in diagrams all have to do with the TCC system.

http://www.transparts.ru/pdf/th125.pdf

Another

http://hooorani.com/productpdf/241%2012 ... 0)@hat.pdf

[GTZryda]

When you have a trans problem you should always first check the trans fluid level and condition. So go check the trans fluids color, smell and if you are low.

[Beretta1234567]

When you have a trans problem you should always first check the trans fluid level and condition. So go check the trans fluids color, smell and if you are low.

Yup, thats what I did first.

Also, I agree with above, the Trans runs without it ever controlling the gear selection electronically, but it does have pressure sensors on each gear that tells the ECM. But it does not seem to have any effect on the output other than waiting for the final gear before engaging the TCC.
So in D, it waits for 3rd gear, then locks up TCC above the set speed.
In 2, it waits for 2 then locks up TCC after set speed.
Same with 1...

I know this to be true because when my old 87 Beretta went from the 2.8 to 3.1 v6, I took an 89 EPROM to run the 3.1 v6 (it was from a 2.8 but it still worked, it never needed MAF).
Anyways, the 87 Trans did not have the pressure sensors to tell the ecm what gear it was in so as soon as it was over 35 MPH, it locked up the torque converter, and it was still in second gear, shifting to 3rd was rough from that with that vehicle.

But that was a different car. Just thought I'd mention how it operated...

Edit:
With that car I was able to move the selector to 2 and move the peddle with it and the TCC never disengaged. But it was worth the fun, it was on its way out, reverse never worked, I always pushed it backwards when parking and such.