1996 Mr.Pink

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:58 am

Starter is different and the AC I made sure was tight... The tensioner pulley I havent checked... that was put in back in 07.

I'll be doing some other tests soon but I just don't have the time right now.

13's or bust · Post by **13's or bust** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 12:14 pm

By chance did you find out what was the cause of the kr?

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Sat Jun 11, 2011 12:32 pm

did you read the last post... I'm still trying to find it. I have no idea what it is.

13's or bust · Post by **13's or bust** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:45 am

that was thursday i wasnt sure if you had gotten in it nd fixed it. my bad jon.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:42 am

Thursday was the last time I touched the car... LOL I took the MG Midget to work Friday and then went out with the inlaws since we were taking someones dog to try out at our home... Didn't work out though, 2 years of no discipline makes a dog who is ok around people but as soon as you leave the room he's into things. Very hard to break that type of lifestyle when all he knows is behave around people because all the other times they lock him in a crate.

SO yeah maybe I'll work on it today to get the warmer wired up and drive it some. I think for this bfest I'm gonna have to leave the knock sensor disconnected on the ride down.

I have a new set of injectors coming back from a cleaning place in NY so that will eliminate an actual fueling issue from the equation too.

Also my schedule is typically, Monday or tuesday or both days working on race car, wednesday night free, Thursday Thompson Race track, then Friday free... so Typically I don't have many days to work on it... Yesterday I spent all day fixing my tractor and then mowing the front lawns... Still gotta do the back but its been raining too much to mow.

99GaGT3X00 · Post by **99GaGT3X00** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:02 pm

3X00-Modified wrote:Thursday was the last time I touched the car... LOL I took the MG Midget to work Friday and then went out with the inlaws since we were taking someones dog to try out at our home... Didn't work out though, 2 years of no discipline makes a dog who is ok around people but as soon as you leave the room he's into things. Very hard to break that type of lifestyle when all he knows is behave around people because all the other times they lock him in a crate.

my friend was like that with his dog. they had to give it up when they move. he got pissed at the dog when it acted out but when you spend you life in a crate with basically no discipline you don't know way other way to act. he had a black lab mix with a crate the size of a twin bed.

on the car your problem sounds like mine. been trying to nail it down for awhile now. sometimes i'll be cruising around and will act like i un-plugged the maf then maybe 5 minutes or so down the road it starts acting normal again. been all through the bin file and nothing out of order, tried 3 different all clean still ends up the same. might try the injectors next but it's kinda hard to reproduce it since i can go days driving with it not happening.

13's or bust · Post by **13's or bust** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:27 pm

i understand that dog stuff too. when i was younger i found a weinenheimer* that was roaming in my back yard my dad didnt want to call animal control so we tried to train it. it was fine with my other dog, and fine while you were in the same room. but one day when we went out to dinner the dog had gone into the basement and at my dads shop vac lol. literally like the top part, the hose, and the wire. the next day my dad called animal control.

if you dont run a knock sensor dont you need to run 93 than? can the knock sensor itself be bad?

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:47 pm

been through multiple knock sensors... I have no audible knock or signs of it on the plugs so there is no reason for me to think I would ever be getting it during daily driving so no I don't need to run 93. And when I do run 93 I get the same issue so I know its not knock since I normally run 87 just on the street. People say if you have the same symptom with 87 as 93 then there is something else making the noise it doesn't like.

I always run 93 at the strip though and I'll run then with the knock sensor plugged in because this problem does not affect WOT readings... Only between 2-3k cruising at very low like 8% throttle.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:24 am

Well bottle warmer is all in and I also insulated the Knock sensor with windshield setting rope... So we'll see how that works out, it felt fine on the ride in to work but I'll see if that lasts.

The warmer works great, switch shuts it off around 925 for pressure and it warmed up to that from 625 in about 15 min so thats not too shabby at all.

Also installed a slightly larger gauge wire for the alternator... The one I had was tagged 8GA but it would fit 10GA lugs, so I think it was miss labeled audio wire to make you think you were getting more than you were... I'm using the same brand thats tagged 4GA and it seems more like its really 8GA, but that will work fine till I get my new wire and lugs in the mail.

99GaGT3X00 · Post by **99GaGT3X00** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:13 am

they do some tricky stuff with that audio power wire. my friend had what he thought was 1-0 gauge cut the insulation down and you would be lucky if it was 4 gauge. people use to say to use welding cable as you actually get the gauge your suppose to unlike the audio companies that pull fast ones on you.

i don't remember but do you have a fuse inline from the alt to the battery.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:43 am

Yes, that was my issue, I was using a cheap ass large blade fuse, and the current through it made it too hot and it melted... Now I have an ANL type fuse holder. They are made to support higher amperage, or at least thats what I've been told... We'll see how this survives once I use the AC for a few hours... LOL The new wire I ordered looks much closer to real 4GA than the crap I have, at least it looks larger than what I'm currently using which was already larger than what melted the fuse holder... so I should be golden once thats installed.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 1:15 pm

Well things are looking up right now... not a blip of KR and since I insulated that, and I also took the time today to smooth out the VE table... Feels like a different car, I think a lot of the spikes in my VE table were due to the lope of the cam causing odd scan readings. But now it feels pretty good and not much has to be adjusted on the MAF side to account for what I changed, and I changed a lot.

I should have a set of injectors coming back soon from southbay fuel injection as well... I figured it was time to clean what I have, but I didn't want the downtime so a second set of injectors works too.

13's or bust · Post by **13's or bust** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:40 pm

lets all just hope the insulation fixed the kr.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:37 pm

Both tagged 4 gauge... Who's lying?

One on the right is replacing the one on the left as my charge wire... The one thats there now is probably just fine since its larger than what I had to start with and what melted my fuse block, so the new wire is simply overkill I know

99GaGT3X00 · Post by **99GaGT3X00** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:18 pm

the one on the left looks more like 8 gauge.

what brand is the new wire you got. i wanna redo my stuff to all the same wire under the hood.

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