Beretta.net

Oooh, cleaner. Now if only it didn't have that ugly minivan cover on the UIM. =P

The trans is in and it's all hooked up, but the car isn't done yet. I have to change the trans filter and gasket, put new fluid in, and repair a couple ground wires. I'm holding off on finishing it to see if she wants me to fix any of the other issues...

Well... While I was playing with this poor car, I noticed it needed a few things!

Both control arms, (vertical rear bushing is pulling out of both sides, and the driver side control arm has a dime-sized rust hole in it!
Both sway bar links
Both brake rotors
Brake pads
and the calipers need new pins...
Torn up/rotted boot on the pass side tie rod.

good job man, and your red car is a beaut!

Oh gosh. I hope she wants it all replaced. I wouldn't drive my car around like that. Its all relatively cheap as well (well I don't know how much a control arm would run used) and would prevent later "issues."

And damn those vertical bushings.

berettaboi wrote:good job man, and your red car is a beaut!

Thanks!!!

snowblindburd wrote:Oh gosh. I hope she wants it all replaced. I wouldn't drive my car around like that. Its all relatively cheap as well (well I don't know how much a control arm would run used) and would prevent later "issues."

And damn those vertical bushings.

The thing about used control arms is that all the ones in the yard have the same issues usually! When I redid my car I replaced the bushing and ball joints and repainted my control arms because they were in nice shape, but in her case, the only option is to buy complete new units ($50 each)! We'll see what she says and what she can afford....

They are 86.79 on RA with bushings and ball joints... May be cheaper to go that route than buying a bare control arm, which I didn't even know was possible for $50

3X00-Modified wrote:They are 86.79 on RA with bushings and ball joints... May be cheaper to go that route than buying a bare control arm, which I didn't even know was possible for $50

Actually they are $44.89 each on Rock Auto for a complete control arm with bushings and the ball joint, I just rounded up to $50. Let me let you in on a little secret, look up 94 or 95, not 96! lol

Are new control arms that you would buy off of RA stock quality? Or would it be better to keep using the original ones if possible?

scd88ga wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:They are 86.79 on RA with bushings and ball joints... May be cheaper to go that route than buying a bare control arm, which I didn't even know was possible for $50

Actually they are $44.89 each on Rock Auto for a complete control arm with bushings and the ball joint, I just rounded up to $50. Let me let you in on a little secret, look up 94 or 95, not 96! lol

Already did your Secret only applies to 95... 94 Sure looks like $86 to me and I thought her car was an 94, but that was just the confusion in the beginning of the thread that had that stuck in my head so I didn't think to look up the 95.

Dorman sells them for $44 for a 95

SummitBalt08 wrote:Are new control arms that you would buy off of RA stock quality? Or would it be better to keep using the original ones if possible?

If it were me I would probably buy the raybestos versions which are $86 each but without someone buying one dorman and comparing it to a raybestos then my assumption of the brand being better is simply that, just an assumption.

3X00-Modified wrote:

scd88ga wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:They are 86.79 on RA with bushings and ball joints... May be cheaper to go that route than buying a bare control arm, which I didn't even know was possible for $50

Actually they are $44.89 each on Rock Auto for a complete control arm with bushings and the ball joint, I just rounded up to $50. Let me let you in on a little secret, look up 94 or 95, not 96! lol

Already did your Secret only applies to 95... 94 Sure looks like $86 to me.

Dorman sells them for $44 for a 95

Yeah, I never checked 94, I only checked 95 at first because her car is a 95, even though I know 94-96 are the same. That's really odd that Rock Auto has it listed funky like that! lol

It still cost me about $50 to rebuild and repaint both of my original control arms, and truthfully, I'm not sure if it was worth saving $50 over spending the time to do it as opposed to buying new... Oh well

The quality of the ball joint would be what I would worry about. I use Moog or Napa brand ball joints most of the time. I'm not sure how well the Dorman ones are made.

I would love to have some disposable income where I could buy 4 different brands and cut them open to see the difference.

3X00-Modified wrote:The quality of the ball joint would be what I would worry about. I use Moog or Napa brand ball joints most of the time. I'm not sure how well the Dorman ones are made.

I would love to have some disposable income where I could buy 4 different brands and cut them open to see the difference.

I actually had the opportunity to do just that with multiple parts years ago when I sold new parts retail!!! I can tell you that Moog is the best from what I've seen, but..... Moog also seems to be better than the Original Equipment in most cases, where-as every other brand that was made in a third world country seems to be similar quality to OE.

In most cases any old brand is good enough for me and the majority of everyone else for that matter, but... If you're going to use your vehicle for the type of use it was never intended for, (drag racing, auto-x, lapping days, taking it off of sweet jumps, etc.) then YES, I would most definitely recommend going with the higher grade superior part!

So, any progress?

snowblindburd wrote:So, any progress?

I've been waiting 13 hours now for her to call or text me back... I can have it finished and on the ground in like an hour if she doesn't want me to fix any of the other parts...

IS PICKING HER UP TOMORROW!!!!! Weeeee! Im literally skipping around toppers pizza right now..

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