1996 Mr.Pink

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 2:34 pm

I've barely driven the car since I got all that done last year... I just bought the right shocks for the rear this week, Also You may want to adjust them depending on what your doing. I do have shiny MRZ aluminum caps for Best of Bfest NE... but I just can't get them to stay in place.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:12 pm

Oh yeah I could understand adjusting them after going down the 1/4 for the drive home.
The ABS caps stay on better, but are a pain to get off sometimes.
I always wondered how those MRZ were held on. Sounds like it doesn't work very well.

Asylum · Post by **Asylum** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:38 pm

The MRZ one are held on by an O-ring as I recall.
I gave up on the damn things and grab as many stock ones as I can get my hands on.
Stupid mechanics don't care and break them most of the time.

Slinky · Post by **Slinky** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:10 pm

Never had trouble with my strut caps, i did mimick MRZ design when i made them, orings hold them in good, and all my billet caps are glued on haha

MY91GT(Z) · Post by **MY91GT(Z)** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:32 pm

Jon was that 99 chain cryo treated before you put it in or you never did that ??

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 9:10 pm

Yes it was cryo treated. Lasted since 09 I think is when I did it

woody90gtz · Post by **woody90gtz** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:17 pm

My MRZ caps always came loose too. Good riddance.

3400tZ · Post by **3400tZ** » Wed Apr 24, 2013 11:40 pm

Mine too :/ I'm surprised to see the 99 timing chain cryo treated too being so messed up... that sucks!

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:53 am

That's why I bought two DRTC's this last time he made them. I'm tired of doing the GM Chain which is loose even when you put it on new, that's just asking for wear.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:39 pm

Timing cover all clearanced...

Crank is also done... got my gaskets this weekend so maybe tonight I'll put 90% of that together to get it cleaned up and out of the way so I can fix my subie when my tools come in tomorrow.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:43 am

Motor is half done... Crank back in, cam in with new bearings and cleaned up the timing cover gasket area on both the block and the cover itself. Getting a degree wrench today so I can finally torque the mains and rods to 100% spec... I've always guessed at the degree amount and its worked before, but I guess it's time to have the right tools.

woody90gtz · Post by **woody90gtz** » Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:44 am

Yeah, it's worth it to spend the money on the correct tools. How do you like that line flaring tool?

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:04 am

I bought it to do the Nitrous stuff and honestly I have not been up to the shop to buy the other parts I need before I can even flare any lines! lol so really I've only used it to test all the options out and it works great because it's effortless.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu May 02, 2013 9:42 am

I guess I need to specify because someone is reading my posts and then trying to insult me online... I own MANY torque wrenches I just never owned a degree wrench, so rather than using a protractor to determine how much I need to tighten down a bolt I can just put this inline between the socket and the wrench and it does the work for me. I guess it's a work smarter not harder tool.... or did I just tighten down the rod bolts on someones engine(no names) with a hand wrench... HRMMMMMM.....

:runsies:

Post by **heavywoody** » Thu May 02, 2013 9:50 am

Don't lie, you know you used the Fisher Price tool set for that engine

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