1996 Mr.Pink

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woody90gtz
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by woody90gtz »

Ewwwwww...gross! Press bent exhaust. haha
91 "SS" - WOT 3400/5spd - 13.29@101.6 - World's fastest N/A FWD Beretta
96 "T56" LS/6spd/8.8 RWD swap - 13.45@104.7 lol
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Yeah a custom mandrel exhaust is something I've wanted to do for a while but there is no one around here and I haven't had the time to cut and weld one up like you did... Who cares, I open the cutout at the strip.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by whiteretta »

Regardless, whatever we put on these cars is leaps and bounds beyond what these cars came with from the factory! Sounds wonderful!
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Well I seem to have this issue with almost all pressure regulators and it's really annoying... Installed and tested the unit would hold pressure for a decent amount of time...long enough to start the car. Now since I actually started the car, if you turn the key to prime the system the pump runs and then the pressure drops to zero after the pump shuts off.... Grrrrrrrrrr this does not help a car start!

I need to figure out what's going on with it and hopefully that's the only thing causing the very hesitated starting and not the deadhead fuel system too.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by bonecrrusher »

Adjustable FPR?
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Yes, aeromotive too... So not a cheap pos


AWWWWEEE POOIE FACE!!
6.) I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator. Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero. Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator? No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off. They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running. OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards. At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off. If extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine, just before the pump shuts off. If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach, extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or ad a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit.
Time to look into the ecu and extend the prime time...
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Well all I can find in the bin is "fuel pump prime time" and it's listed in Seconds and has a value of 30... I hope that's a typo and is really milliseconds because it does NOT stay running for 30 seconds, 3 I would believe. I'll pull my current bin and change it to something like 300 or 400 and see if it actually stays running for longer. That would solve my issue.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by Slinky »

you know how much a p.i.t.a my old FPR was to try to figure out what was going on and why it was bleeding off and in the end it was just a cheap design, you have the same FPR that I have now and mine doesn't bleed off super quick at prime but I have not tested it over long periods of time yet, but it is definitely a hundred times better than the cheap am one that actually cost more money
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Well when I installed this unit it primed and held pressure pretty stable... and since running and the pump being on and more fuel running through it now it will prime and drop to zero immediately. I may take the top off and make sure the lines didn't have crap in them or something that is effecting the ball seat, but seeing how they have this on their FAQ then it's safe to say you may get one that will hold decent pressure or you may get one that will drop off very quick and that's not a design issue it's just how it is.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by Slinky »

3X00-Modified wrote:Well when I installed this unit it primed and held pressure pretty stable... and since running and the pump being on and more fuel running through it now it will prime and drop to zero immediately. I may take the top off and make sure the lines didn't have crap in them or something that is effecting the ball seat, but seeing how they have this on their FAQ then it's safe to say you may get one that will hold decent pressure or you may get one that will drop off very quick and that's not a design issue it's just how it is.
well if they designed it and called out on the drawing that there was a tighter tolerance on the chamfer of the ball seat or actual ball beqring dims were closer it would solve your issue, hell what are we both doing up at 9 a.m. on a Saturday talking about FPRs anyway haha %)
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

It's a friday... and I'm at work... that's why.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by ifixalot »

The car looks and sounds super nice!!
I hope you get your fp problem solved soon.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by Slinky »

3X00-Modified wrote:It's a friday... and I'm at work... that's why.
Damn.. It is only friday, I'm losing it..
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by 3X00-Modified »

Trust me it feels like it should be a Saturday... but just not yet.
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Post by Cliff8928 »

3X00-Modified wrote:if you turn the key to prime the system the pump runs and then the pressure drops to zero after the pump shuts off.... Grrrrrrrrrr this does not help a car start!
This problem could potentially be at the fuel pump as well, correct?
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