1996 Mr.Pink

[1988GTU]

Your oil situation has me interested to find out the root cause.
Any progress in parts disassembling?

[3X00-Modified]

Went for a bike ride today and then cam back and started working on it... Have it down to the valve covers off and checked all the seals to see nothing out of place... surprise surprise... But it was so friggen hot I just quit for the day. Next thing to do is pull the lower intake and clean it up. I'm not sure what is causing the pull of oil but I'm adding silicone to where the baffles touch the valve covers to try and seal that area better and prevent vapor or straight oil from getting in there. I'm also debating using a AOS system or re-designing the PCV system to eliminate it or have it pull pressure after the AOS.

[Red_Bra_Black_GTZ]

Ok, cause I have 10:1, and 215 compression test


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[3X00-Modified]

From a hotrod website

Compression ratio is based on squeezing the swept area into the unswept area of the cylinder. Compression ratio is figured on the gross combustion area in the cylinder,when the piston is at bottom dead center, divided by the unswept area, which is the area above the top of the piston when its at top dead center. This gives you the static compression ratio.
Cylinder PSI is the actual pressure built in the cylinder, when the mixture is totally compressed.
There are a lot of factors governing PSI, cam overlap, cam timing, are two major factors.

For example; a 64 289 2 bbl engine with 9:1 compression, spec'd at 150 PSI.
A 64 260 2 bbl engine with 8.7:1 spec'd at 150 PSI, and a 200 cube 6, with 8.7:1 compression spec'd at 170 PSI.

It actually may have been 215, its been too long and I've been way busy so I don't remember. The actual CR is 10.5:1 though. I need to get two matching pressure gauges and then I can actually do a good leakdown test on the motor... right now the setup that I got from HF sucks seeing how one gauge goes over 100PSI and the other one only goes up to 15psi and is in percentage scale... Its very hard to check when you don't have two equal scales.

[Money pit Beretta]

Almost sounds like the problem that the Eco's have under boost. Most end up with a catch can hooked up in the PCV return line. Acting as an oil/air separator. Some went as far as drilling holes and adding small screens on the rocker cover. That would be a bit of over kill here.
GM did know of the problem and came up with a vented oil fill cap as a stop gap. I have that on my 3100 which seems to be useless(that I know of). Thought there was enough blow by to make it useful at the time. In your case it could be of some use. I have another just sitting around so if you want I can get a part number.

[Asylum]

But it was so friggen hot I just quit for the day.

You haven't air conditioned your garage yet?

[3X00-Modified]

But it was so friggen hot I just quit for the day.

You haven't air conditioned your garage yet?

It's not insulated yet... I'm not made of money it will be a large undertaking to insulate it... I need to do SIPs or build something similar on my own to keep the interior post and beam exposed.

[1988GTU]

Went for a bike ride today and then cam back and started working on it... Have it down to the valve covers off and checked all the seals to see nothing out of place... surprise surprise... But it was so friggen hot I just quit for the day. Next thing to do is pull the lower intake and clean it up. I'm not sure what is causing the pull of oil but I'm adding silicone to where the baffles touch the valve covers to try and seal that area better and prevent vapor or straight oil from getting in there. I'm also debating using a AOS system or re-designing the PCV system to eliminate it or have it pull pressure after the AOS.

I read ya on the heat. The humidity here is adding more insult to injury, making the desire to work in, around, on the car very low. I don't skimp out getting my cardio on with the bike, seeing how i can't run. The limg could be allowing oil to be sucked in from the valley side. Curious to know how the manifolds (upper and lower) mate together with the gaskets when installed on heads/block? You may have a great port match, but the alignment for port centering could be a problem. Assure the gasket's are properly crushing by looking for impressions or metal rubbing. Double check with bluing the mating surfaces using proper gasket height.

[3X00-Modified]

Pulled the LIM off today... so far I can't find anything that indicates that gasket leaking oil in. The head ports are as clean as I remember them being, as for the LIM runners those are where the oil is pooled up.. Still not 100% sure if its JUST the breather system causing this issue but the only thing I can do is clean the upper and lower VERY good re-assemble and then watch it closely. All the valve seals are 100% intact so I know that's not the cause of it.

I will probably order a catch can today and see if I can cram that in the bay to hopefully eliminate this issue in the future.

[3X00-Modified]

A whole lot of work for notin... Except for finding which valve was leaking oil and finding the bad seal..... Grrrrrrrrrr

[1988GTU]

limg was allowing the suckin of the oil?

[3X00-Modified]

No its the valve seals again... Nothing wrong with the LIM or gaskets.

These 2.2l seals don't sit straight on the seats so they are off center compared to the valve stem. I think I may go back to stock seats and just find shims to get me where I need to be. 0.015 and 0.025 would work.

[3X00-Modified]

So for those of you who don't have a facebook account... I took the ole pig around a local road course track last Wednesday... Oh boy was it fun.... And of course the brand new ACDelco recovery tank decided to split at the seam and dump coolant everywhere in the pits. I got 2 of the 3 runs in that I was allowed to do... Unfortunately had to throw in the towel with what happened. Oh well, there is always next year.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 0442890a74

road course layout


Reservoir carnage.




I will be taking the car to Epping in two weeks to finally put down some 1/4 times and see what it can do. I also swapped on the F-body brakes for the above fun and they worked GREAT for slowing the car after the main straight... I was hitting 100-110 on that front stretch and had to woah it down quickly for turn 1. And since I put those in I noticed/remembered the heavy pedal travel from the increase piston surface area so that prompted me to buy a 96 Monte Carlo master cylinder which has a larger 24mm piston and is biased for disc front and rear brakes. Hopefully that will improve pedal feel when I do use these and better rear brake as well. I'll be swapping back to the N-body brakes for the dragway weekend... it's a weight savings of 5lbs per wheel for the rotors and on top of that the drag radials are 3lbs lighter so from street trim I'm taking off 16lbs of rotating weight.

Brake master I bought was a ACDelco wholesale closeout from RA for $78 PN#174739 Only 1 remaining at that price...

[Money pit Beretta]

Just a defect or something to avoid?

[1988GTU]

Did the mount squeeze the container while it was at max expanded capacity. Perfect storm scenario?