Crankshaft sensor relearn?
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
When it was warm out there was no problem. Or you just couldn't notice it, not 100% sure on that.
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
On the 96, it ran fine when the engine was cold. As the engine warmed up about 2-3 minutes, when I gave it some throttle,
the engine would chug a bit and I could see the rpm actually fall off a hundred rpm until I gave it more throttle. Also if I pushed
down hard on the throttle, the engine seemed to have less power. At idle all seemed OK.
On the 94, it started fine with a cold engine. But once the engine was to full temp, after I shut it off to do some
shopping, I'd start the engine and it would fire up and then die. I had to give it some throttle to keep it running but then
it would stabilize and idle.
Are you losing any coolant? Maybe a head gasket is going? When the head gasket on the daughters car was going.
When the car was started cold it had a miss due to coolant in the cylinder. As it warmed and the coolant was expelled
that cylinder fired again and the engine ran ok. But at idle when warm, I think, coolant was forced back into the cylinder and
it would start to miss again. The car also threw a code for the rear oxygen sensor but that was because there was coolant coming
out the cat interfering with the sensor. She was losing just a little coolant but it took me awhile to figure out the head gasket
was leaking.
Have you ever pulled the spark plugs to see how they look?
the engine would chug a bit and I could see the rpm actually fall off a hundred rpm until I gave it more throttle. Also if I pushed
down hard on the throttle, the engine seemed to have less power. At idle all seemed OK.
On the 94, it started fine with a cold engine. But once the engine was to full temp, after I shut it off to do some
shopping, I'd start the engine and it would fire up and then die. I had to give it some throttle to keep it running but then
it would stabilize and idle.
Are you losing any coolant? Maybe a head gasket is going? When the head gasket on the daughters car was going.
When the car was started cold it had a miss due to coolant in the cylinder. As it warmed and the coolant was expelled
that cylinder fired again and the engine ran ok. But at idle when warm, I think, coolant was forced back into the cylinder and
it would start to miss again. The car also threw a code for the rear oxygen sensor but that was because there was coolant coming
out the cat interfering with the sensor. She was losing just a little coolant but it took me awhile to figure out the head gasket
was leaking.
Have you ever pulled the spark plugs to see how they look?
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
May have to pull the plugs in the spring just to be sure. As of now it's a bit hard to tell on the coolant as the radiator was replaced not that long ago.
Really don't have a problem keeping it running, once started only the key can stop it. No loss of power, what is left still seems to be there. Sometimes I think that the ECM has a bit of trouble with the 3400 intakes and the huge 65mm TCE TB. At least on a very cold start. As said at idle at a stop it does drop rpm enough to dim the headlights for about two seconds, then kicks back up. There is a miss too. With the gas pedal down at any point everything is fine.
Really don't have a problem keeping it running, once started only the key can stop it. No loss of power, what is left still seems to be there. Sometimes I think that the ECM has a bit of trouble with the 3400 intakes and the huge 65mm TCE TB. At least on a very cold start. As said at idle at a stop it does drop rpm enough to dim the headlights for about two seconds, then kicks back up. There is a miss too. With the gas pedal down at any point everything is fine.
keep'em flying!
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
Update: When driving I'd say the car got up to a speed high enough for lock up(didn't look at the speedo nor did I feel it lock up). At the stop sign there were a lot of people turning left and not leaving enough room for someone to turn right. It opened up and went to 3/4 throttle, the car bucked like it was hitting the rev limiter, but more harsh and there is no way it could have been that high in the rpm or even close to it. Let off and went to 100%, same thing. It was moving, but more like light throttle. Let off again and went back to 100%. RPM gained at a slower than normal rate with the feeling of half power or less.
The drive goes on at normal throttle with it acting normal. No problems going up the hill where there was trouble before. The next hill it started bucking hard like the TCC was not letting the converter unlock. No time to pull down to a lower gear. Pulled it down anyway to test and found no bucking with more throttle or normal throttle. Held it in first with no problems, then checked the other gears. Holding speed and then pushing the gas down. All normal. At the light the take off was normal do to cars in front with no problems. No chance for more testing, too mad and at home anyway.
The drive goes on at normal throttle with it acting normal. No problems going up the hill where there was trouble before. The next hill it started bucking hard like the TCC was not letting the converter unlock. No time to pull down to a lower gear. Pulled it down anyway to test and found no bucking with more throttle or normal throttle. Held it in first with no problems, then checked the other gears. Holding speed and then pushing the gas down. All normal. At the light the take off was normal do to cars in front with no problems. No chance for more testing, too mad and at home anyway.
keep'em flying!
Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
That leads me to suspect a transmission problem if manually shift it doesn't bring about the studabucking.
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- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
I agree, just unsure what it is. Engine problems are not helping me feel any better. Whole damn drivetrain is screwed up.
keep'em flying!
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
Relearn done, did help some. After a drive the cutting showed up in all gears. Pointing the finger at the ICM and a failed coil. Doesn't happen all the time, just under heavy load. That would also cover the bucking of the converter in inconsistent places.
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- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
ICM was changed, nothing wrong with that. Ohm's were checked on the coils and all were in spec. Did have some water in the gas which some Heet took care of.
Right now the engine runs fine, but if you stab the throttle in or out of gear it will cut out. A quick stab out of gear at 3k and nothing is wrong. If you stab it at idle it will cut then rev normal.
Do to good weather I'll get to work. As of now thinking the four year old fuel filter needs to be replaced. Then unplug the KS if that changes nothing. Feeling like the fuel flow is just fine as long as there is constant flow. When the flow rate changes then there is a problem. Just so others are sure, as long as the throttle change is eased into there is no cut. Hit it too quick and you have cut, back off and it's fine. Leaving a stop light there is no problem if you take off normal.
Right now the engine runs fine, but if you stab the throttle in or out of gear it will cut out. A quick stab out of gear at 3k and nothing is wrong. If you stab it at idle it will cut then rev normal.
Do to good weather I'll get to work. As of now thinking the four year old fuel filter needs to be replaced. Then unplug the KS if that changes nothing. Feeling like the fuel flow is just fine as long as there is constant flow. When the flow rate changes then there is a problem. Just so others are sure, as long as the throttle change is eased into there is no cut. Hit it too quick and you have cut, back off and it's fine. Leaving a stop light there is no problem if you take off normal.
keep'em flying!
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
Fuel in the filter was black and full of metal flakes. Didn't want to say fuel pump, but we all knew it was the problem.
keep'em flying!
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
Now in the shop for the pump. Will get it back on Thursday.
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- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
Your 95 has a maf doesn't it? The maf senses an increase in airflow into the engine. If it's not working right
it could cause a cut. By cut you mean bog, hesitation etc right?
They sell a special maf cleaner in a spray can at auto part stores. Try cleaning it or try another one
form the JY.
Sometimes they get dirty from stuff that gets past the air filter or if you have an air filter that uses some oil on it for filtration,
that might cause some oil film on the maf.
it could cause a cut. By cut you mean bog, hesitation etc right?
They sell a special maf cleaner in a spray can at auto part stores. Try cleaning it or try another one
form the JY.
Sometimes they get dirty from stuff that gets past the air filter or if you have an air filter that uses some oil on it for filtration,
that might cause some oil film on the maf.
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
the 94-95 3100 PCM has no CASE learn requirement/procedure.
unplugging the knock sensor will apply a default amount of retard to the timing(it's either 10 or 15*, I forget which), which is going to cause the engine to run marginal, at best.
you have a way oversized throttle body, which is causing a serious lean spot when you hit the throttle quickly due to the AE calibration being setup for a 52mm throttle plate.Money pit Beretta wrote:ICM was changed, nothing wrong with that. Ohm's were checked on the coils and all were in spec. Did have some water in the gas which some Heet took care of.
Right now the engine runs fine, but if you stab the throttle in or out of gear it will cut out. A quick stab out of gear at 3k and nothing is wrong. If you stab it at idle it will cut then rev normal.
Do to good weather I'll get to work. As of now thinking the four year old fuel filter needs to be replaced. Then unplug the KS if that changes nothing. Feeling like the fuel flow is just fine as long as there is constant flow. When the flow rate changes then there is a problem. Just so others are sure, as long as the throttle change is eased into there is no cut. Hit it too quick and you have cut, back off and it's fine. Leaving a stop light there is no problem if you take off normal.
unplugging the knock sensor will apply a default amount of retard to the timing(it's either 10 or 15*, I forget which), which is going to cause the engine to run marginal, at best.
no MAF on a -95 3100 unless you have an A-car.ifixalot wrote:Your 95 has a maf doesn't it? The maf senses an increase in airflow into the engine. If it's not working right
it could cause a cut. By cut you mean bog, hesitation etc right?
They sell a special maf cleaner in a spray can at auto part stores. Try cleaning it or try another one
form the JY.
Sometimes they get dirty from stuff that gets past the air filter or if you have an air filter that uses some oil on it for filtration,
that might cause some oil film on the maf.
- Money pit Beretta
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
Strange how that would show up after four years of having that huge TB on a DD car.
Right now it wants to die if you sit at a stop light too long. When the trans was replaced something happened to the neutral safety switch, it will only start in park. That is hard to do sometimes when cold, but not every time.
Right now it wants to die if you sit at a stop light too long. When the trans was replaced something happened to the neutral safety switch, it will only start in park. That is hard to do sometimes when cold, but not every time.
keep'em flying!
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Re: Crankshaft sensor relearn?
if the TPS is failing, it can do the same, PCM doesn't see the throttle opening quickly until after it's too late to add AE fueling to correct for a rapid change in airflow.
a failing fuel pressure regulator comes to mind as well since you've changed the pump with no improvement.
a failing fuel pressure regulator comes to mind as well since you've changed the pump with no improvement.