Wont´start!
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
I changed mine and had no trouble getting it out(guess I was lucky, I have 200k on a 90GT). Only one bolt, but it was a pain to get to. Thanks for the post, it did seem like myself and 1988GTU were the only ones trying to help. I hope Madmax gets back to us soon.
keep'em flying!
Wont´start!
No problem, I'd like to know if it helped though.
1988 Beretta GT 5 speed - 1st car... Gone to the crusher.
1989 Beretta GT Z-51
1994 Beretta Z26 getting FE7+Z51 goodies
1987 Pontiac Bonneville LG3+4T65-E
1987 Chevrolet Celebrity Wagon L36+4T65-E
1998 Chevrolet C1500 5.7L L31+ built 4L60-E

1989 Beretta GT Z-51
1994 Beretta Z26 getting FE7+Z51 goodies
1987 Pontiac Bonneville LG3+4T65-E
1987 Chevrolet Celebrity Wagon L36+4T65-E
1998 Chevrolet C1500 5.7L L31+ built 4L60-E
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
Well it didn't fix my problem, but it did help some. It may help Madmax and that's why I am posting here. If I get the time I will PM him to see what's going on.
keep'em flying!
Wont´start!
Sorry, for not have been updated you guys...
Thanks for your advice, I've tried to do as much I can, but now it's cold outside, and sometime snowy..
I did have the car in to a servcieshop, but the did´t do anything for 3 weeks...
Got a other one http://www.norrortsbilovan.se/ and they got back in one day!!
But they tell me that the compute is dead.. because he can´t connect to it....
And a new one cost about 600 Dollares...... exclude work....
The Coils and moduls costs 400-450 here in Sweden

I can get a new (used) motor for 600!!!!
Am I Sad becuse this car was for my wife and my ChevCaprice toke a Sharbite of a Volvo, spit it out but losed some all the teeth http://www.caprice.se/community/viewtop ... f=8&t=3920
It is cheaper to buy a other one than to have it fixed......
M.P.B; do you have some contactinformation for Hey Weba. tried to search but did get anything, Finland is not so far away

Thank´s again for all respons...
I DO let you know what happends...when it happends...
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
I think it just the PROM and here in the US it's not 600 bucks. It's easy to change and you do it inside the car. I say check the web for the PROM(or called the chip). What was the code #? Code 51 is the PROM. It's just Weba, go to your messenger at the top of this page and contact him that way. I have 4 days off right now and will look for someone that will ship.  Please post again and tell me the code or if you can get a PROM your self. I have one that I keep if mine fails again, if I have to and it will work in your car I'll find a way to send mine if you can't get one.
keep'em flying!
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
No luck finding a new Prom online, I looked for hours. You will have to go to your auto parts store and see if they can get one. Here in the US they are about 120 bucks. On your big body car you can go to www.classicindustries.com they have the parts and ship outside the US. I have bought parts from them for my 67 Camaro(had to sell it, it was too far gone), they are good people. They are not cheap but the parts are very good. Get back to me on the PROM, I should be able to get one easy, but it may be hard and cost alot to ship. I hope you can get one near you, it will save money. Did you contact Weba? Well that's all for now, good luck and take care. Update: I can't do a PM to you(so you may not be able to contact Weba). I don't know why this is.
keep'em flying!
Wont´start!
Wow that is expensive for parts! It might be cheaper to send you some parts from over here to you. I know I have a few spare coils, modules, and computers/chip here. Shipping would be the only determining factor for you.
_________

-------------

-------------
Wont´start!
My 88 Beretta, 2.8 was running well one day, and the next, it will crank, but not start. I have depressed the gas, but the motor will not catch. When I turn the key I hear a hum from the back, which I believe is the fuel pump. I'd like to eliminate some easy issues first. Where would I find the fuel filter on this car? What would you suggest I try next?
Lastly, I live in Edmonton Alberta, do you know if there are any parts available closeby or do I have to purchase off the internet. Thanks.
Lastly, I live in Edmonton Alberta, do you know if there are any parts available closeby or do I have to purchase off the internet. Thanks.
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
88 beretta, everybody seems to have their ECM going out. I'd bet yours is out too. If you can get one, change it your self and save some money. The fuel filter is just above the rear axle.
keep'em flying!
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
Madmax you still out there? Anything new?
keep'em flying!
Wont´start!
Wow I'm way late on this...Before replacing the computer, you should at least try to enable flash diagnostics by jumpering the A and B terminals of your ALDL as in the picture below.
Jumper the terminals with a paperclip, then turn the ignition to Run (but don't start the car). If your Service Engine Soon light flashes a code 12 (one flash, pause, two flashes), you at least know your computer is working (and probably is fine). If nothing happens, turn off the ignition, remove the paperclip, and check the wiring to the connector. Assuming you have the regular instrument cluster (hopefully with a tachometer) and not the digital one, does your tachometer indicate RPM when you crank the engine? If not, you're more than likely looking at a bad ignition module (the plate shown below) or bad crankshaft position sensor. The coils (lined up next to each other below) are also a possibility, though three don't usually go out at once.
Disconnect the top (3-pin) connector on the driver side of the ignition module and use an ohmmeter set to the 2K Ohm position to test the two outside pins of the connector (the one with the wires, not the ignition module). If the reading is 900-1200 ohms your crankshaft position sensor and wiring are okay. Remove the coils and test the front terminals of each with an ohmmeter set to the 20K scale: should be 5.00K-10.00K ohms. Cut a paperclip or flat piece of metal and place them in the slots on the back of the coil so that they're sticking out (don't let them fall in). Measure between the two with the ohmmeter set to 2K: should be 0.2-1.0 ohm. If any readings are off, the coil is bad. The ignition module can be tested by parts stores for free here in the U.S., not sure about in Sweden. The machines put the module through, I think, 5 different tests. I don't know if it is possible to test the module yourself. Hope this helps.
Jumper the terminals with a paperclip, then turn the ignition to Run (but don't start the car). If your Service Engine Soon light flashes a code 12 (one flash, pause, two flashes), you at least know your computer is working (and probably is fine). If nothing happens, turn off the ignition, remove the paperclip, and check the wiring to the connector. Assuming you have the regular instrument cluster (hopefully with a tachometer) and not the digital one, does your tachometer indicate RPM when you crank the engine? If not, you're more than likely looking at a bad ignition module (the plate shown below) or bad crankshaft position sensor. The coils (lined up next to each other below) are also a possibility, though three don't usually go out at once.
Disconnect the top (3-pin) connector on the driver side of the ignition module and use an ohmmeter set to the 2K Ohm position to test the two outside pins of the connector (the one with the wires, not the ignition module). If the reading is 900-1200 ohms your crankshaft position sensor and wiring are okay. Remove the coils and test the front terminals of each with an ohmmeter set to the 20K scale: should be 5.00K-10.00K ohms. Cut a paperclip or flat piece of metal and place them in the slots on the back of the coil so that they're sticking out (don't let them fall in). Measure between the two with the ohmmeter set to 2K: should be 0.2-1.0 ohm. If any readings are off, the coil is bad. The ignition module can be tested by parts stores for free here in the U.S., not sure about in Sweden. The machines put the module through, I think, 5 different tests. I don't know if it is possible to test the module yourself. Hope this helps.
-Jeff P.
Black '88 Beretta GT
Spice Red '06 GTO
Previously Owned:
'89 GT, '91 GT, '92 GTZ (12.95@105 mph), '01 Bonneville SSEi
Black '88 Beretta GT
Spice Red '06 GTO
Previously Owned:
'89 GT, '91 GT, '92 GTZ (12.95@105 mph), '01 Bonneville SSEi
- 88*Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:28 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
(Madmax @ Oct. 23 2007,16:00)QUOTE...serviceshop, and after 2 weeks...could´t check the computer......
And to find anyone who can make service on this car
A other problem with my caprice - no one can fix it!! not even our local GM store....
You got questions...ask away...you don't need the repair shop, unless you have no place to park it inside to work on.
You junked your Caprice, I assume....I'm familiar with them...
All vehicles can be worked on...most all mechanics tend to work on the "Top 40 Vehicles" (what is current).
Where are you at on these projects?
If you need small parts, it might be possible for one of us to send you some "used" parts....
- 88*Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:28 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
(88beretta @ Nov. 23 2007,21:56)QUOTEMy 88 Beretta, 2.8 was running well one day, and the next, it will crank, but not start.
When I turn the key I hear a hum from the back, which I believe is the fuel pump.
Turn the key on, wait several seconds, then attempt a start.
No go...try the sequence again.
Fuel filter is by the fuel tank, in the rear, on driver's side.
You might try to use a tire pressure guage on the fuel rail port, before you turn the key, and after you turn ignition on; remember, its around 40 psi, and you might get some fuel spraying around.
When it won't start, read the code...
- 88*Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:28 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
(Money pit Beretta @ Nov. 23 2007,11:40)QUOTENo luck finding a new Prom online
Prom for 60V6 motor?
Go Here, and look up specific motor
- Money pit Beretta
- Registered User
- Posts: 6411
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Kansas
Wont´start!
I have a Jet Chip, I was looking for a PROM for Madmax. I think his is bad so he can't use a performance chip. Thanks though, I know of those guys, they have great stuff.
keep'em flying!