Re: new exhaust and new battery, still having problems?!

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:43 pm

Can you get someone to bang on the converter and the muffler to check and see if anything is bad? I sure hate to tell you all kinds of things to replace and we end up missing the problem. I know that you don't have much money, but it's very hard to tell what's going on when we are on a computer. If there is any way that you can tell us how the engine runs at all times that would help. Like any misfire, smoke from the exhaust or a stumble when you take off from a stop light. You may have to unplug your battery after the O2 is replaced to reset everything. The car then may run well, or it could run very bad for a little while. Give it time to work things out on it's own if it can. Also, if you can get a print out of everything that they found from the scan that the shop did that could help(like sensor readings not just the codes).

SuzukiGhostRider · Post by **SuzukiGhostRider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:58 pm

leppardberetta wrote:
SuzukiGhostRider wrote:My first question. Why do you think the mechanic lied to you? Because he told you something that will cost your more money than you want to spend and don't want to hear? It sounds as though he told you the truth. The EGR's are KNOWN for clogging on these cars, the alternator DOES sound bad, and your intake gaskets COULD be leaking. Now the code 45 , for an easier , more simplistic explanation , could simply be a bad O2 sensor. Let's start simple , then get complicated later when simple doesn't work. To see if your intake gaskets are leaking, one test is easy. Get a .99 cent can of Carb Cleaner, start the car and spray it around the area where your intake gaskets seal. If it starts chugging/dies , then you have bad intake gasket seals. GL.
First off I KNOW and you do not know the mechanic or situation so dont judge me, I have always paid for repairs and will if I think it needs it! I am just getting over cancer treatment and do not have much money so I got on here for help. I know the EGR can be cleaned and I did replace the alternator! Anyway thanks to those that replied.

I'm sorry that you seem to have taken my response as a personal attack. That was not the case whatsoever. I just get tired of people saying mechanics are lying when it's now what they want to hear or think it is. In that case , why go to the mechanic at all? Just tell yourself what you want to hear , is all I meant. No personal attack intended. GL with the car, you have my opinion on what's wrong.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 4:26 pm

I took my car back to a shop today and it is not the oxygen sensor? It said rich exhaust when it was put on a machine... The car still idles high and dies when sitting still?! Hopefully another mechanic will listen to it and can figure out what he thinks might be causing the problem, a friend is suppose to take it to him. I need another car that is reliable!! I am tired of being stranded.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:04 am

Another mechanic said to change the MAP sensor which DID NOT fix the problem and he told my friend to take the part off and take it back if it did not fix it!! Why would a mechanic suggest to change a sensor when he KNEW that was not it after testing etc. That is why I have lost faith in the mechanics I have dealt with. I do not have the money to waste on things that will not fix the problem?!

I posted another reply before but it did not show up? Have a good day everyone!

SuzukiGhostRider · Post by **SuzukiGhostRider** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:16 pm

High idle, rich exhaust would lead me to two items. IAC sensor or O2 sensor. As you've replaced the O2 ,have the Idle Air Control valve/sensor tested. It could , of course, be something else, but the IAC is a common failing component on GM engines. GL.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:20 am

I am going to have the IAC changed asap! I was going to try the throttle position sensor but a friend of mine said they changed one on their car and it did not fix the problem so I thought I would try that first! Is it hard/easy to change?

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:24 pm

Only two screws hold it on, but they are Torx. If possible try to clean the port out before the new one is put in.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Sun May 03, 2009 7:24 am

Well my IAC was changed and now the car will not stay running?!When it is started it dies now!

I was hoping for the best and it got worse!!

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Sun May 03, 2009 8:29 am

Disconnect your battery for a few hours, and clear the ECM's memory... then restart it and it may have trouble trying to idle, but it should straighten itself out eventually... You need to do an idle re-learn.

BUT this sounds like it was your issue... the IAC was way open and the ECM was commanding it to stay shut so when you replaced it, now the ECM is still commanding it shut and this one is actually closing so it wont idle.

Idle Relearn Procedure for Pre 94 cars

For everyone that has been asking lately here's the procedure to have your computer "relearn" your idle. If you drain out your battery and the car is dead you will have to do this.

Idle re-learn:
1. unplug negative terminal on the battery wait a few minutes
2. reconnect battery
3. start car and DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS
4. let the car get to normal operating temp(when the fan turns on)
5. turn the car off and let cool
6. repeat steps 3-5 two more times

After that you should be good to go with the proper idle. You just have to make sure not to touch the gas pedal or put the car in gear or anything that would make the RPM's drop or go higher.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:36 am

Ok, I will try that. It takes awhile for my fan to come on, like 10-15 minutes, is that normal? Thanks for the help!!

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon May 04, 2009 9:09 am

yes, especially when cold. It means your cooling system is working well if it doesn't need the fan on often.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:33 pm

I also did not mention that the car runs when it is cold but when it gets hot that is when it starts to act up?!

The other night it would not stay running at all when the IAC was first changed. Thanks!

Post by **Cliff8928** » Tue May 05, 2009 2:33 am

A couple things I would check based on your symptoms are..

1) Fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum line off and see if there is any gas coming out the vaccum connection. This would be a typical failure for it and would cause the car to run rich.

2) Fuel injectors. Measure the resistance across the terminals, preferably while hot. 12ÃƒÆ’Ã…Â½Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â© is normal, I would replace anything 10ÃƒÆ’Ã…Â½Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â© or less. Sometimes they can cause hot driveability issues.

leppardberetta · Post by **leppardberetta** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:49 pm

Well I had my negative battery cable unhooked for hours, hooked it back up to try to do the idle relearn and it only ran long enough for the fan to come on once then it would not start back up and the check engine light came on! any ideas now on what could be causing this? I am at my wits end with this car and can't take the stress anymore.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Wed May 06, 2009 8:28 am

Have you replaced your Crank position sensor? And have you had your ICM checked? This is starting to sound heat related.

What code is triggered in the ECM

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