rear tie bar

[Money pit Beretta]

Ok the Cavy guys have had rear tie bars for some time now. Does anybody here have a use for one? I know of a guy that makes some on J-Body. Also I can get a parts list for those who would like to make their own. Now I'm not sure if the Cavy axle is the same size as ours. The guys over there say that the bar is pre made and needs 1/2inch cut off it to fit the Cav. Well if you want to look at one look here. http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f ... 1&t=142111" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Just thought I bring this up just in case.

[Money pit Beretta]

Originally Posted by Misnblu
Here's the part list for my tie bar.

1 each XML6-7 (3/8 x 7/16 M LH 4130 NFM left hand Heim $11.63
1 each XMR6-7 (3/8 x 7/16 M RH 4130 NFM right hand Heim $11.63
1 each SJNR07 7/16 RH Steel Jamnut .46 cents
1 each SJNL07 7/16 LH Steel Jamnut .46 cents
1 each 6837-44 7/8 x 7/16 x 44 inch Alum. Rad Rod $12.92
http://www.rodendsupply.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is where I got the parts from and tie bar.
I did have to cut the ends about a half inch with no issues for that perfect fit.
It was easy with enough thread in the aluminum bar to be able to cut it for a more custom fit.

[3X00-Modified]

Thats right where my sway bar bolts too...

Why not just do a set of these.



that is a L-body rear arm btw...

[3X00-Modified]

Just to stick this out there so others know too..

Michael Milanovich wrote:

now just out of curiousity what is everyone running for rear toe?

There's no toe adjustment for our cars so it really doesn't matter.
But the tie bar will prevent any severe toe change from occurring when you're driving the car hard. That's the whole purporse of the tie bar is to keep the two trailing arms of the torsion beam in parallel with each other so when you do make a corner, both tires follow the same path giving you improved feel while tracking the rear of the car much better.
Hopefully that'll answer a few of the questions on this.

[Money pit Beretta]

Wow, that looks cool! I'm not very good at welding though. Very nice work!

[3X00-Modified]

PAH, I wish that was mine... LOL That's a picture from their J-body rear disc swap thread. I have no idea who it belongs to.

[Money pit Beretta]

Well it did kind of look like your work and you do have rear discs. That's why I thought it was yours. Hell, it almost looks like your shop.
Not that I think you would use that paint. You have more class than that.

[weba]

I Personally think bars like that don't really do other than add weight, they do barely anything to the axle wobble our cars suffer.



This is what i have on the line for my GTZ, watt-link setup from Opel Astra 2010 looks fairly easy to execute.. Lets see what i have time to do this.

Anyhow I'm getting a custom (Stiff!) bushings done for next summer for starter.

[3X00-Modified]

Anyhow I'm getting a custom (Stiff!) bushings done for next summer for starter.

Rear axle bushings? I was thinking of doing that but then others told me you dont want it too stiff...

I'm still thinking of getting a delrin set made up though.

[weba]

There were 3 different stiffness bushings from the factory, FE1, FE3 and FE7 ones.. and since they all start to be 20 year old... You get the point, even getting rubber replacements would improve the current worn old ones a lot.

I am getting a set or two made on local rally car building shop where i discussed about the rear suspension... not going to be cheap....

First need to get my engine together so i can turn the car around and remove the axle.. damn small garages.

[Money pit Beretta]

Weba you are a fab god. Not all of us are and we look for something small with a low cost to help out. Update your build topic when you start this project. I'll be watching because I love your work.

3X00 that sounds like a good idea for you. That would help keep the front end planted more when running the 1/4. I do plan to build my own bar, but I will be using Moog bushings for the axle. I bought them for the 90GT and never got a chance to put them on. They are just sitting around, so I'll put them to some use.

There is a solid mount tie bar for sale out there, but I hear that it makes the ride very ruff. I can give a link to anyone that wants one. A guy told me that he had it on is car for two days before he took it off and put a build your own on.

[3X00-Modified]

I'm thinking of doing spring rubbers to keep the ass from squatting on launch, but we'll see...

I'm also debating on doing a welded diffirential.. Of course bringing a spare trans diff cover and diff when going to the strip to test it... and a set of axles and intermdiate shaft... LOL's think of everyhing you can destroy and bring a spare.

[weba]

Welded differential on FWD car kinda means you are not really turning anymore

[Money pit Beretta]

The ones that go between the coils? I didn't know they made them for tapered springs. I know a guy that has had a welded diff and has had no trouble with it breaking when going in a straight line. It's turning that kills them. Your car is driver and doesn't get to the track on a trailer, so I'd have a fear of breaking too.

Weba beat me to it so I guess what I said is a 2nd.

[Barry]

The bar that MPB posted could help a little, but all it does is keep both back wheels together, it will still allow the whole axle to "sway".

The one that Jon posted is MUCH more effective, it keeps the wheels together, and also eliminates a lot of the sway.


Im down for a group buy for some rear bushings. Mine have 175k miles on them. I get random tire rub that makes me think my axle moves a lot during hard driving.