rich smelly and farty

[themixer]

Well as a continuation of the post of the othersite, I thought I would update and ask for help here.

The problem: a poor idle (misfires), and rich smelling exhaust

what i have done:

ICM (tested good)
brand new ACDELCO coilpacks
ECU (swapped to stock 5 speed)
new ac delco plugs
new bosh wires (tested)
new IAC
Cleaned EGR
Cleaned TB
new o2


The car idles about 150% better since the new coil pack replacement (thanks SGR) but it still smells VERY rich, seems to be hesitation when stepping on the gas. I was using a Genesis OBD1 scan tool for data logging, but it doesn't seem to want to work with the new computer I have installed. When the other computer was installed the car would flip rich to lean while driving a lot, and when you gave it gas it would always goto rich. Not sure if this matters but he car has no cat on it.

I am going to try unplugging the CTS to try out limp mode, to see if the rich exhaust smell goes down. I am pretty much at a loss on this one. I really would like it to run smooth and OEM!

Would the EGR cause problems like this? lets say if i ordered a WOT tech chip with EGR deleted would that eliminate that possibilty and could I still leave it there or would I have to remove it completely?

[3X00-Modified]

Rich lean is how its supposed to switch... the narrowband o2 cant sense anymore than those two. So ignore that, but pay attention to your Coolant temp reading... It sounds like your coolant temp sensor is fouling up which will make the car run rich, but at the same time do you have the ability to get set of injectors or have the ones you have checked/cleaned?

And on the ECM note... what ecm did you use and what was in it before?

As noted above.. Unplugging the CTS puts you in a RICH limp mode... Not lean... the CTS unplugged shows up as -40* and will use way richer tables than a properly heated up engine.

[themixer]

the ecm i had was an auto for the same year 1991 replaced with a 1991 5 speed one (shane on this site)

I have another set of injectors, what could be the problem with them?

[Cliff8928]

Also check the FPR that it isn't leaking fuel out the vacuum port.

[themixer]

will check that never even looked at it

[Barry]

Yeah also check to make sure the FPR is working correctly. You should see around 43 PSI at idle

[themixer]

I finally got the Diag tool to work, seems like the new computer isn't grounded for some reason, ran a ground wire to the caseing and it seems to read, not sure how its even working that way. But here is the information off it, looks like the CTS sensor is reading correctly vs the gauge and the stock thermostat i have. I did this in the driveway after about a 30 min hwy drive. And the idle was a bit ruff, exhaust was still rich smelling. I should say this problem isn't really that bad my cars working about 95% I just want it to work perfect.

Does anything look abnormal?

[themixer]

anyone know if this is all within spec?

[GTZfan]

crank rpm 9999?

[themixer]

your guess is as good as mine ? thing fires up on the first turn everytime

[3400beretta]

How much are the o2 mV moving up and down once the car is warmed up? According to your BLMs, the computer is removing fuel. Could have an injector stuck open, or fuel pressure is too high due to a plugged return line.

[themixer]

I just bought a set of flow matched injectors, I am also going to pick up a fuel pressure tester to be sure of the pressure is correct

[Money pit Beretta]

Seems to me that the barometirc pressure is too high. 30iHg? Where do you live?
The volts for the MAP go along with that high pressure. Almost maxed out.

[themixer]

I live in nova scotia canada, could this be some sort of bad sensor?

[3400beretta]

Seems to me that the barometirc pressure is too high. 30iHg? Where do you live?
The volts for the MAP go along with that high pressure. Almost maxed out.

Thats baro volts, and since these cars don't have a barometer....

Scroll down a bit and you'll see the map value and volts.