1990 rear drum brake job.

Want some new struts? What brand springs to buy? How much camber to run? What brake pads? What's the best setup for your situation....
indyyellow
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1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by indyyellow »

I hate drum brakes and these seem to look more involved then drum jobs I have done in the past. Seems the wheel hub spinning thing is in the way. Can I take that off first? If so anything I need to be careful about?
I have bought new drums, pads, wheel cyl and flex lines.
Is there ONE specific tool and what is it called that I can buy to make getting the springs off and on easier?


Tim

---2005 Magnum RT -- 116k
---1996 Ford Probe GT (V6/5sp) -- 150k (90k on motor)
---1993 Chevy Silverado Z71 -- 261k
indyyellow
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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by indyyellow »

bump


Tim

---2005 Magnum RT -- 116k
---1996 Ford Probe GT (V6/5sp) -- 150k (90k on motor)
---1993 Chevy Silverado Z71 -- 261k
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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by 3X00-Modified »

No, you should leave the hub on, if you take it off the whole backing plate and brake drum assy, shoes and all will come with it... typically the backing plate freezes to the back of the bearing with rust.

But you should be able to get it all off using the proper brake part tools. It's simple.


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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by indyyellow »

and what are the proper brake tool parts. I was as the parts start yesterday and they had like 10 diff tools it seemed. I have always just used screw drivers, busted knuckles and cursing


Tim

---2005 Magnum RT -- 116k
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---1993 Chevy Silverado Z71 -- 261k
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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by DTMAce »

I was going to say, the rear's are piss easy to do honestly. Did mine last year, and have done all my own brakes for the beretta since I owned it. :D

I never have used the "right" tool for them, mostly a smaller screwdriver for the springs along with a small channel lock, and/or a decent set of needle nose pliers, but it helps if you have that spring tool, cause those are usually what gets your fingers if you aren't careful. LOL

You do NOT have to remove the bearing/spindle/backing plate, unless something is wrong with them. DO get yourself a couple of cans of brake cleaner though, it will help.


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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by DTMAce »

Here was the pic of mine before changing it....

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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by indyyellow »

why do you have your drum off? pads look good?
Anyways, can the bearings be lubed up or are they sealed?


Tim

---2005 Magnum RT -- 116k
---1996 Ford Probe GT (V6/5sp) -- 150k (90k on motor)
---1993 Chevy Silverado Z71 -- 261k
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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by DTMAce »

Drum was rusted all to crap, put brand new drums on last year, just wanted the brakes all replaced, it had sat for a while.


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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by Money pit Beretta »

Yes they are sealed.
I had alot of trouble when I did the rear bearings on my 90GT. As said they were rusted to the backing plate. I tried everything from a torch to a hammer(also PB Blaster). I had to get it done and ready for work Monday and the only way I could get them off was to put them between my feet a jump. I was in trouble and had to get it done. In other words that is by far not the best way to do it. I did find out that the Camaro(3rd gen) had the same backing plate. They were in stock at my local parts store, but I didn't find out they were the same until I got back home and it was too late.
That's what I got for trying to rebuild the drums, put new wheel cylinders on and do the wheel bearings at one time with no time to do it. It didn't help that the car had the stock bearings and 180K.

I did try a large gear puller from the back and all it did was bend the sides of the backing plate. That was after I tried everything else.


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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by DTMAce »

Air hammer would do it though. If you used it right so you didn't beat the backing plate all to crap. Probably could use a chisel with the air hammer, if you were careful. I had to use a air hammer with a driving rod to get the front bearings out last year.

But in your case, you shouldn't need to go that far, just change out your shoes and springs, etc, and you are good to go.


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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by indyyellow »

I did not get any new springs with any of the new brake parts. new springs needed?


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---1996 Ford Probe GT (V6/5sp) -- 150k (90k on motor)
---1993 Chevy Silverado Z71 -- 261k
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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by 3X00-Modified »

brake hardware kits are so cheap its just worth replacing them... a kit should have all the pins, washers, shoe hold down springs, return springs, and the ebrake bar spring.


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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by indyyellow »

Is this kit a dealer only thing or will a normal parts start carry them or be able to order them?


Tim

---2005 Magnum RT -- 116k
---1996 Ford Probe GT (V6/5sp) -- 150k (90k on motor)
---1993 Chevy Silverado Z71 -- 261k
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Re: 1990 rear drum brake job.

Post by DTMAce »

Dude, most of the time you can find the kit for less than 10 bucks at any auto parts place. Last time I bought them were on RockAuto.com along with all my brake hardware. Spent like 250 bucks, but IN that order were new rotors, new front bearings, new pads/shoes, rear hardware kit and new drums. I think the spring kit was like 5 bucks or something.


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