Gen2 60v6

[1988GTU]

What would cause a 3.1MPFI with 80k miles, new High Volume oil pump, mobile one oil 10w30 (It's full), brand new oil sending unit to read 40psi while driving, 0-3 psi at idle in gear/out of gear stopped?


Anyone have the oil jacket map for this engine?


I couldn't figure it out...  The engine purrs like a kitten too.
No knocks, ticks, rattles, shaking.....  

[MAJ28]

I'm no oil pressure expert, but the first thing I would say is to check the oil pressure sensor.  Again, I'm no expert on what kind of oil pressure you should have, but with the high volume pump I would expect it to go up, but who knows how high?

»Jason

[1988GTU]

This:

Was replaced with a new one... to make sure, it was taken back for another new replacement again.

? ? ?    :-\

[1988GTU]

Could the high volume pump be starving from not having enough oil in the pan?

[MAJ28]

(1988GTU @ Dec. 02 2005,21:18)Q
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ECould the high volume pump be starving from not having enough oil in the pan?
If it were starving from not enough in the pan, then it would be in the top of the engine, it only makes sense right?  How much higher then normal is it, I don't know what the PSI is supposed to be normally.

That is the sensor I was referring to.

I haven't done any oil filter research lately, but I recall hearing something about how some oil filters have bypasses and some do not, I'm not exactly what this bypass is or how it work - but the short story is that it (the filter) could create a bottleneck.  If you pump more oil - it only makes sense the filter has to flow better.


--------EDIT--------
Scroll Down and start @ Primary Filters

This is something good:
"The Bypass Value

First you need to understand why the bypass valve is there. Under *ideal* conditions, the bypass valve will *never* open. Because, when it opens, the oil *by passes* the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in *real* operation, it opens often.


One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting, then the bypass closes. Blipping the throttle while warming up is a good way to get the valve to open and send unfiltered oil to the motor. A steady warm-up rpm is probably a lot better.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure to the 70 to 80 psi range. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged. "

Taken from here:
http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/filters.htm

I was under the impression that not all filters HAD bypass valves, but neither of these articles are indicative.  I hope this is a simple filter change.

If you're really stuck on this, I'd say take a $12 risk and buy a Mobil1 filter, Mobil1 is one of the best oils and supposedly the filter flows better then most.  
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs1

Keep in mind this is all just my personal theory on it....

»Jason

[1988GTU]

This engine uses pretty much all AC/Delco parts.
PF47 for filter.



Before anything went south it ran above 25psi at idle and 65+ under accell for oil pump pressure.



I am going to drop the oil pan, pull the new HV pump & put another new HV pump in.   Then if it still reads low PSI, the motor is going to have bolts dropped down the intake and a M80 is going to be dropped into the oil fill hole.    

[MAJ28]

(1988GTU @ Dec. 04 2005,01:01)Q
U
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EThis engine uses pretty much all AC/Delco parts.
PF47 for filter.



Before anything went south it ran above 25psi at idle and 65+ under accell for oil pump pressure.



I am going to drop the oil pan, pull the new HV pump & put another new HV pump in.  Then if it still reads low PSI, the motor is going to have bolts dropped down the intake and a M80 is going to be dropped into the oil fill hole.  ÂÂÂ
Let me know how that (2nd part) works out....    

....and I guess the 1st part too.

»Jason

[wicked-irocz]

Is your pickup attached properly and not to close or to far from the bottom of the pan?

[1988GTU]

Yes the engines oil pick up tube is seated and set properly.

[1988GTU]

I got around to doing the pump today.... Kinda cold out there.

Idles with 25-30PSI and Drives with 45-50PSI.
Must have been the 1st New HV Pump.

[Guest]

the haynes book lists minimum pressure  at 1100 rpm as 15 pounds  so does the chiltons.They idle at roughly,without looking it up here ,and iof memory serves and i am pretty sure it does here-they idle at roughly 650 rpm so at idle ,stock pressure would be something less than 15 pounds.wouldn't it?
 A high volume pump would naturally be more.

[1988GTU]

That is scary ...  
I guess it passes GM 'tests'.



Edit: The HV oil pump being used is only good for 20% more volume over a standard oil pump.