89 Beretta No Start When Hot
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Blued Steel
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89 Beretta No Start When Hot
I've got an 89 Beretta (2.8L) that cranks but won't restart when I shut it down hot unless I let the engine cool off for about 20 minutes. Any suggestions on the source of the problem? Thanks.
Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
I would guess crank sensor or ICM. Just a thought though
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heavywoody
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Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
2nd on the CPS.
Geoff
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Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
Yep , change your crank sensor ... if that doesnt fix move on to ICM and coils
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spacecadetz26
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Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
This is an MPFI engine right? Betting its the injector's. I seem to recall many of those having an issue with the fuel injectors ohming out when hot, but once it cools down they are fine. One way to know is when its hot, you have to measure each injector to see what the resistance is, then when its cold. That will show for sure.
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Blued Steel
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Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
So a few different possibilities.
If I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key on does that rule out the fuel pump relay?
I know the CPS is on the back, center of the engine. Can someone give a more specific location? Is it accessible from the top of the engine?
It is an MPFI car. The car runs fine other than the starting issue. Wouldn't I be having other problems, rough idle, if it were the injectors? I'll keep the injectors in mind for the next check if the CPS doesn't solve it.
If I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key on does that rule out the fuel pump relay?
I know the CPS is on the back, center of the engine. Can someone give a more specific location? Is it accessible from the top of the engine?
It is an MPFI car. The car runs fine other than the starting issue. Wouldn't I be having other problems, rough idle, if it were the injectors? I'll keep the injectors in mind for the next check if the CPS doesn't solve it.
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pghturbo88
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Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
Take a step back, and start diagnosing by what it "is or isn't".
When in the no-start condition, lift one of the front spark plug wires, plug into a spare spark plug, ground the electrode / threads of the spark plug, then have an assistant crank the starter. If you don't see a spark, then investigate the CPS, ignition module, coils, etc. as others have suggested. If you do see a spark, then migrate down the path of a fuel issue.
Good luck!
When in the no-start condition, lift one of the front spark plug wires, plug into a spare spark plug, ground the electrode / threads of the spark plug, then have an assistant crank the starter. If you don't see a spark, then investigate the CPS, ignition module, coils, etc. as others have suggested. If you do see a spark, then migrate down the path of a fuel issue.
Good luck!
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1989 Beretta GT 2.8L (Original Owner)
1996 Chrysler Town & Country 3.8L
2009 Honda Accord EX Sedan 2.4L (Original Owner)
Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
I've having the exact same issues with my 90' 3.1. Only when it warms up. Got fuel and fire, and a new CPS. Guess the ignition module is next??
Re: 89 Beretta No Start When Hot
Having a 2.8/3.1, i feel your pain!!! There are several things that you can do to diagnose your problem...
1 - Typically, if you hear the pump when you turn the key on, your relay is fine. If you would like to confirm that it is not a fuel problem, there is a lone female pigtail on a red wire in the driver's side corner of the firewall. This is the fuel pump prime pigtail and bypasses the relay. Run a jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to this pigtail. If your car starts, then the relay is bad.
2 - DO NOT PULL A PLUG ON A HOT ALUMINUM HEAD!!! Find an old plug and do the test that turbo88 suggested. If you have no spark, inverstigate the ICM.
3 - The ICM can be tested at nearly any auto part store, however, no matter how many tests they run on it, it will not get as hot as sitting under the front exhaust manifold. I had a similar problem as you and it would always test fine no matter how many tests the store ran on it.
4 - The crank position sensor is in fact on the back side of the block, in the center lengthwise just above the oil pan and has a two-wire pigtail. It is best accessed from underneath - it cannot be accessed fom the top.
Hope this helps - good luck!!!
1 - Typically, if you hear the pump when you turn the key on, your relay is fine. If you would like to confirm that it is not a fuel problem, there is a lone female pigtail on a red wire in the driver's side corner of the firewall. This is the fuel pump prime pigtail and bypasses the relay. Run a jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to this pigtail. If your car starts, then the relay is bad.
2 - DO NOT PULL A PLUG ON A HOT ALUMINUM HEAD!!! Find an old plug and do the test that turbo88 suggested. If you have no spark, inverstigate the ICM.
3 - The ICM can be tested at nearly any auto part store, however, no matter how many tests they run on it, it will not get as hot as sitting under the front exhaust manifold. I had a similar problem as you and it would always test fine no matter how many tests the store ran on it.
4 - The crank position sensor is in fact on the back side of the block, in the center lengthwise just above the oil pan and has a two-wire pigtail. It is best accessed from underneath - it cannot be accessed fom the top.
Hope this helps - good luck!!!