Huge scare, not sure if I'm out of the woods yet - Coolant

[Burning_Beard]

Yesterday, I walk in to find a pool of coolant. BRIX

Popped it open to find the cap went bad. WHEW.

Went to go get a cap, and a few things I've been neglecting, possibly related, new belt and tensioner, idler pulley, and temp sensor.

Filled the reservoir back up and topped off the rad, and mistakenly spilled a bit of coolant. NOW I CAN'T CHECK TO SEE IF THERE ARE OTHER LEAKS, until it burns off.

Only installed the new cap, fired her up, let her idle to 50%/fan comes on. No other leaks! Noticed the reservoir filling up, took off the reservoir cap and see this:



A few bubbles. Not sure if its boiling, or hopefully it's air escaping from the system from the cap going bad. I stuck my nose in there and did not smell exhaust. It's clear and clean fluid, the camera makes it look shitty.

Anyways, want to wait until it cools down to put the temp sender in.

I'm still ok, aren't I guys???


Anyways, what's the trick to release the tensioner? There is no space to get a 3/8 ratchet in there for leverage. Should I just pry/push up from the bottom of the arm? I have the wheel and wheelwell sheilding off for access.

[berettaboi]

there is a special tool for serpentine belt tensioners. its a flat bar with a 3/8" square drive on it. you can get away with a pry bar in a pinch, but be careful.

as for the coolant bubbles, might need a bit more info. if you had to put in a lot of new coolant, could be just air bubbles need to be vented/bled out.

this also happened when my coolant was boiling, due to not circulating (waterpump impeller shaft broke- could hear slight clunking in the waterpump). your temp would be climbing unstop-ably (besides shutting it off) is that's the case.

[Burning_Beard]

there is a special tool for serpentine belt tensioners. its a flat bar with a 3/8" square drive on it. you can get away with a pry bar in a pinch, but be careful.

as for the coolant bubbles, might need a bit more info. if you had to put in a lot of new coolant, could be just air bubbles need to be vented/bled out.

Thanks for the tool tip, I'll see if anyone has that as a loaner somewhere.

Not a ton, just filled the overflow back up and about 2 inches in the rad itself. I believe I need to re-read the coolant bleed procedures, I know there are one or two bleed screws (tstat housing/water pump housing). I did neither.

I never had a problem with heat, afaik. A percieved lack of it from my dash, It just looks like it's running cold and I'm running rich. I'll see if its the coolant sensor or if it just runs colder than what I think is normal.

I have no idea why I'm not replacing the waterpump as a preventative measure, since I'm right there and I'm sure it's OE. Back to the parts store! YEEEEEEE

[berettaboi]

one sure way to tell if it's overheating, if the coolant is bubbling and there is a fair amount of steam coming out as well...

[snowblindburd]

there is a special tool for serpentine belt tensioners. its a flat bar with a 3/8" square drive on it. you can get away with a pry bar in a pinch, but be careful.

as for the coolant bubbles, might need a bit more info. if you had to put in a lot of new coolant, could be just air bubbles need to be vented/bled out.

Thanks for the tool tip, I'll see if anyone has that as a loaner somewhere.

Most chain parts stores rent it.

[Money pit Beretta]

You are ok, it's just air in the system.

[Burning_Beard]

Thanks, it eventually subsided. Dash has been gurgling a little, i hope thats just it sorting it self out and not the heater core failing.

New rad cap, serpentine belt and tensioner, and water pump, all seems fine *fingers crossed*

I admitted defeat on the temp sensor, way to hard to get to and way to much to remove to get to it.

[Money pit Beretta]

Keep an eye on that tank. If you still have gurgling then there is still air in the system.

[berettaboi]

make sure that your heat is on when you are bleeding the system as well.

[GTU89]

Thanks, it eventually subsided. Dash has been gurgling a little, i hope thats just it sorting it self out and not the heater core failing.

New rad cap, serpentine belt and tensioner, and water pump, all seems fine *fingers crossed*

I admitted defeat on the temp sensor, way to hard to get to and way to much to remove to get to it.

Temp sensor isn't that hard to do. Assuming you already know but keep an eye on your coolant levels. I just replaced my original water pump as well.

[Rettax3]

Also on the tensioner... an open-end wrench works great, since GM cast the end of the arm nice and square. Doh! I just can't remember off the top of my head what size -3/4", 7/8"? I think the 3/4" (19mm) works... I've also had to do it by brute-force while sitting on top of the engine in a parking-lot -which is really funny since I only weigh ~135 pounds, so brute-force isn't what you would expect.