Stupid Engine Light
Stupid Engine Light
As far as i know-OBD1 was used through 95 and obd2 came in in 96-according to my repair manuals -if i am not mistaken.
 the trouble is -the 94 and i guess 95 3100 beretta has an oddball diagnostic port connector , unlike the standard obd 1 connector, that the standard scan tool won't connect to.
That's how it was explained to me by both autozone and advance.:banana
 If that explanation isn't totally accurate -maybe some1 else can explain it better.
 the trouble is -the 94 and i guess 95 3100 beretta has an oddball diagnostic port connector , unlike the standard obd 1 connector, that the standard scan tool won't connect to.
That's how it was explained to me by both autozone and advance.:banana
 If that explanation isn't totally accurate -maybe some1 else can explain it better.
Stupid Engine Light
Well, I went to advance auto here, where they scanned mine, had the tool like you say, but they also had the adapter piece that fit onto the end of their tool, and then plugged into my car's port.
On the EGR thing, phooey. Man, I replaced that thing, 185-190 bucks too. Stayed out for a little while, but started coming back on after I had a dual outlet muffler put on the car. I tried cleaning the passage they spoke of, nearly a whole can of carb cleaner down that thing. The car didn't even want to start after I did that. That's how much I put in there. Light still comes on. Last time I had it rescanned by advance, they said it was coming up as a "history code", meaning I assume that the computer picks up something was wrong there, but that it's ok now, but it still throws the engine light on. Annoying.
But yeah, mine should not be sticking as the new EGR valve has maybe 20,000 if that on it? Maybe a little more, I don't know right now. But the car only has a little over 105,000 if that tells you anything. Oh well.
On the EGR thing, phooey. Man, I replaced that thing, 185-190 bucks too. Stayed out for a little while, but started coming back on after I had a dual outlet muffler put on the car. I tried cleaning the passage they spoke of, nearly a whole can of carb cleaner down that thing. The car didn't even want to start after I did that. That's how much I put in there. Light still comes on. Last time I had it rescanned by advance, they said it was coming up as a "history code", meaning I assume that the computer picks up something was wrong there, but that it's ok now, but it still throws the engine light on. Annoying.
But yeah, mine should not be sticking as the new EGR valve has maybe 20,000 if that on it? Maybe a little more, I don't know right now. But the car only has a little over 105,000 if that tells you anything. Oh well.
Stupid Engine Light
I am going to check again -maybe that adapter you speak of is new to advance.The last I checked was at least 6 months ago.
- IsaacHayes
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- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: Missouri
Stupid Engine Light
UPC: you need to install some scree or something in the tube that goes to the EGR. You see it's old and there are chunks of carbon that might fly up and stick your new EGR. I have not done that but now the manufactorers are using this technique.
I dont think codes will trip the SES light that are old, because the SES light doesnt come on until it tries to open the EGR. So you might have another problem.
Or try disconnecting your battery for an hour so it clears all the codes.
I dont think codes will trip the SES light that are old, because the SES light doesnt come on until it tries to open the EGR. So you might have another problem.
Or try disconnecting your battery for an hour so it clears all the codes.
Stupid Engine Light
yeah that screen would certainly be a good idea.i think you are right that a memory won't trip the light.
Stupid Engine Light
Well, I mean that is what the guy said. And it does not run rough or anything like that. I have tried disconnecting the battery, and they used the code eraser feature on the reader for it. So I don't know. But the thing runs fine. It usually does not come on for about 15-20 minutes, either when I am on curvy roads running 55-60 or if I am coming down from highway speed, or if I've been on the highway for a little while. Maybe 20-30 minutes.
Stupid Engine Light
You're not suppose to leave the cleaning product in the EGR... You're suppose to clean it with that stuff (Brake Cleaner Works Well) and get something up in there (Make sure the EGR is off the car) to break loose the carbon deposits.
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Stupid Engine Light
ok I am cleaning the EGR valve tomorrow. And I guess go from there!
As for resetting codes try this one....
Start the car let it run until the fan comes on and then shut it off for 15mins then restart until the fan comes on again then either drive it or shut it off. From what I was told with my 91 only certain codes will be erased if you disconnect the battery. The Turning car on and off thing I was told reset the computer.
As for resetting codes try this one....
Start the car let it run until the fan comes on and then shut it off for 15mins then restart until the fan comes on again then either drive it or shut it off. From what I was told with my 91 only certain codes will be erased if you disconnect the battery. The Turning car on and off thing I was told reset the computer.
- IsaacHayes
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- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:32 pm
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UPC, I'd check your intake manifold passege then that leads from the egr. It's probably restricted or clogged. If you got a new EGR, then that is the only left possibilty as far as the EGR setting codes.
555, what you posted was what I alwasy heard was for an idle relearn....
555, what you posted was what I alwasy heard was for an idle relearn....
Stupid Engine Light
the problem you're describing on deceleration is exactly what mine does-and the chevy garage has told me each time that it is setting a code that tells them the number 3 motor in the valve is a nano-second slow in operating.-I haven't got a  clue as to why each valve i have tried does the same thing.But I do know every passage has been cleaned and re-cleaned.
 Good luck with yours.
 Good luck with yours.
- IsaacHayes
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- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:32 pm
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lugnut: try re-cleaning your EGR with carb cleaner and really work the valves up and down really fast and a lot. It may only take a tiny fleck to add some drag and made it slow to open. Also here is another possiblity, perhaps the connector and EGR pins have some corrosion on them. Not big build up, but surface stuff that adds some resistance. If you were to somehow clean them, and perhasp put on some dialectric stuff perhaps something like Nyogel for electrical stuff, then it would get more power and have less resistance, and therefore might open quicker.
Sounds crazy but it might actually help.
Sounds crazy but it might actually help.
Stupid Engine Light
Ok I have finally found someone to code my car! Yeah! It came up blah blah #3 EGR valve blah blah blah! ANd so I cleaned EGR valve cleaned and the intake! Light went out for like 3 days! Now it comes on but not as often....I was wondering though should I clean it again?
And where is that screen thingie? Maybe that is still clogged?
I also want to check the connectors again! Maybe I over looked the corrosion! It has been so freakin cold out to do anything!!
And where is that screen thingie? Maybe that is still clogged?
I also want to check the connectors again! Maybe I over looked the corrosion! It has been so freakin cold out to do anything!!
- IsaacHayes
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- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: Missouri
Stupid Engine Light
Yes clean it again. I cleaned mine and it only came on intermitenly and then stayed on. Then I replaced my LIM again, and gave it a really good cleaning. (clean the valve a LOT, move those pistons up and down fast and lots of times)
The screen I refered to would be to get a peice of metal screen and put it in the exhaust tube that goes up to the EGR. The idea is that it will catch any large chunks of carbon that fly up there and could get in the EGR and stick it.
EGR #3 I belive is the smallest hole/valve of the EGR. Really work that sucker good and keep spraying carb cleaner in there, work it, spray. Keep doing it until it is butter smooth. I know it doesn't travel as far down as the larger two ones, so it takes a little longer of moving up and down before it cleans out well.
The screen I refered to would be to get a peice of metal screen and put it in the exhaust tube that goes up to the EGR. The idea is that it will catch any large chunks of carbon that fly up there and could get in the EGR and stick it.
EGR #3 I belive is the smallest hole/valve of the EGR. Really work that sucker good and keep spraying carb cleaner in there, work it, spray. Keep doing it until it is butter smooth. I know it doesn't travel as far down as the larger two ones, so it takes a little longer of moving up and down before it cleans out well.
Stupid Engine Light
The intake air sensor will make the light come on sometimes too,not just the EGR, when decelerating at highway speeds.