replacing cv axle
-
- Registered User
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: St. Paul Mn
- Contact:
replacing cv axle
The drivers cv axle went bad on my brothers Beretta. I've never changed one but good chance to learn how. I watched a video of a guy do it on a Pontiac sunfire. 30mm socket to get the spindle nut off then took out the 2 strut bolts to free up the wheel bearing/hub and removed the axle and new one in and re assemble. Is this pretty much the same on a 90 Beretta and does anyone know off hand what size those 2 strut bolts are? Thanks.
- 3X00-Modified
- Administrator
- Posts: 10915
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:18 am
- Location: Brooklyn CT
Re: replacing cv axle
your better off removing the ball joint and not taking apart the strut from the knuckle unless you want to bring the car to get an alignment after doing the job.
-
- Registered User
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: St. Paul Mn
- Contact:
Re: replacing cv axle
Oh alright maybe I'll do that then. I'm just worried it won't come apart with the fork/get damaged. I'll give it a try though. Does the shaft pull out ot will I need a pry bar to nudge it out?
- 3X00-Modified
- Administrator
- Posts: 10915
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:18 am
- Location: Brooklyn CT
Re: replacing cv axle
It has a clip on the inside so slight use of a pry bar may be needed.
Regarding the ball joint, remove the nut, or loosen it as far as you can then strike the knuckle around where the ball joint shaft is going through, try to have someone apply downward pressure on the control arm at that time (best to also disconnect the sway bar so that's not pulling up against you), Typically you can disrupt the interference fit of the taper and release it without using a fork... Boot and ball joint saved.
Image illustrating about where to hit with the hammer.

Regarding the ball joint, remove the nut, or loosen it as far as you can then strike the knuckle around where the ball joint shaft is going through, try to have someone apply downward pressure on the control arm at that time (best to also disconnect the sway bar so that's not pulling up against you), Typically you can disrupt the interference fit of the taper and release it without using a fork... Boot and ball joint saved.
Image illustrating about where to hit with the hammer.
