Heater Problems

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:43 am

Ok, i have an 89' Beretta GT. When my dad bought the car from his friend, it had some problems, but we fixed most of them, except for one. The heater. I have no heater. Ive replaced the heater core, but when i go to use the heat, nothing but cool air comes out. Ive tried switching the hoses around, that didnt work. I know the water pump has been replaced. Ive replaced the thermostat to an OEM. I can swith the heater on, and turn the temp knob to heat, and i can hear it switch from blowing on the chest, to blowing on the floor, so i know the switch works. I know coolant is getting to the core because when ive unhooked it from the hoses, coolant leaked out, so im lost. Please, Please, Please email me, Ckay19899@aim.com, or if im on aim, Ckay19899, IM me please, i really need to know what the problem is, its urking me. ThX.

Jeff P · Post by **Jeff P** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:46 am

Hey Caleb, I'm e-mailing this to you as well as posting on the BerettaNet MessageBoard just so other people are aware of the possible causes. Sorry the message is so long, I wanted to make sure I covered it . This should actually be a very simple fix. The most likely cause is the Temperature Valve Motor. When you turn the temperature knob on the climate contols, this motor turns a blend door to regulate the ratio of hot to cold air. You'll need to remove the black panel under the dash and the colored panel under the steering column to get to it. What you're looking for is a black plastic box (about 5"x3.5"x1.25") beside your accelerator pedal with three wires coming out of it: red, brown, and black. The easiest way to test the temperature valve motor is to remove it - but leave the wiring plugged in - and turn the ignition to Run. Change the temperature from hot to cold and see if the motor moves. If it doesn't, disconnect the plug and measure the voltage between the brown and black wires (should be 12V or so), then measure between the red and black wires (Cold = 10-12V, Hot = 1-3V). If the 1st voltage doesn't measure right, the problem is in the wiring. If the 2nd voltage doesn't measure right, the problem is in the temperature selector on your climate controls or the wiring from there to the motor. Hope this helps

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:43 pm

wow, thx for the help man. I'll check it out soon. I'll reply back to you when im done, with the results of course, thx homey.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:54 pm

hey man, i just did what u said, and it was realy hard getting to that frikin box let me tell ya, but i did get to it and the motor works, so what now?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 10:56 pm

besides my heater, i have another problem too, for some reason, it just happened yesterday, after i installed a new stereo in my car, i turned on my headlights and all of a sudden, almost simultaniously, my dash lights went out as well as all my interior display lights, u know, how every thing lights up when u turn on the lights and its dark. I checked my wiring for the stereo, and its fine and i even checked the fuse. The fuse that was in it was blown, so i put a new one in it, and everything worked fine, but then i started going down the road and i hit a big bump, and my stereo fell out cuz it was loose and then my dash and lights went back out again, but i checked the fuse, and the fuse is still good.....im confused, and help would be the **** right now, Ckay19899@aim.com, or AIM : Ckay19899

Jeff P · Post by **Jeff P** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:36 am

Do you get heat in any setting at all? When you turn to Heater, where does the air come out? Most of it should come out the floor vents and a small amount should come out the defroster vent.

The only fuse that burned out was the one in the stereo? And the dashlights came back on after you replaced that fuse? Make sure you didn't use the brown wire or the gray wire when you installed your stereo (gray with black stripe is okay). Also make sure they are both capped or taped off.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:11 pm

I dont get heat in any setting at all, and i got one of those wire harnesses at walmart for istalling new stereos, so that i wouldn't butcher my original wiring. The fuse for the dash lights is the one that blew, i think its slot number 11 or so, its one of the bottom two, just above the one by itself on the bottom, ya so it blew out, and so i replaced it with a 10amp fuse, and the lights came back on, then i started going down the road and my stereo fell out, and all the lights went back out again, but i checked the fuse again because i thought it went out again, but it didnt, it was still good, and like i said, i dont get any heat whatsoever on any setting....

Decipha · Post by **Decipha** » Tue May 02, 2006 3:17 am

if your refering to the instrument cluster fuse its suppose to be a 1 amp, if its blowing its due to a short and with a 10amp fuse in their chances are your going to burn up some wires, since its not working and the fuse is still good chances are you have already burnt up some wiring or fried something... never put a bigger fuse than recommended for the gauge wiring you are using

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue May 02, 2006 2:45 pm

iight, thx for the tip homey, dont know much about this stuff anyway...

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