1994 Base Beretta Problems...

[BazBone]

Ok I'm confused.  I just bought this 1994 Beretta with 85k.  My first car was a '92, same type (2.2L 4Cyl Automatic), with similar mileage, but then again, I got that car 6 years ago, and had none of these problems.  Anyone possibly help with these issues?  I've looked through the posts and haven't come up with much of anything.

- I recently replaced the steering rack, and up until then, my brake pedal went from perfect, to soft, spongy, and traveling almost to the floor before sort of bringing the car to a stop.  I checked the brake lines, the vacuum lines to the booster, the front calipers, the only thing I haven't checked are the rear wheel cylinders, but if that's not the problem, I'm at a loss...  The brakes were absolutely perfect until then, maybe it's just a coincidental thing?  It's driving me NUTS!  Especially seeing as it's winter here in wonderful Mid-State NY, and brakes are a nice thing to have working right...

- There's an intermittent low idle problem when the car is warmed up and stopped.  It's not as noticeable when it's cold, but there.  There's no vacuum leaks as far as I can tell (The good old Carb Cleaner to the lines trick), I've replaced the wires and plugs, used some gas system cleaner (Lucas).  Could this be from a dirty EGR?  I see alot of posts relating to that...  Or are there other issues with the 4cyls?  I didn't know jack about cars back when I had my first one, and for all I know, it did the same thing, but now I just notice it.

- A nit picky thing...  I have an aftermarket Pioneer deck, and the dimmer wire isn't seeming to work.  Fuses all check out.  Doesn't so much bother me, but just looking for ideas.

If anyone can help, i'd REALLY appreciate it.  Thanks!

-Shaun

Ok, so I forgot something in my previous post...

When I put my car into reverse, I have a very pronounced vibration that rattles the car, but yet in drive there's nothing...  Maybe the transmission mount under the motor?

[Money pit Beretta]

Lets see, brakes= master cylinder, on the mounts you are right(it could be both), on the idle it could be many things(after I had replaced many sensors,which did help some, I came to the vapor canistor). Try this link http://www.xe.com/leres/efidiag/  it should be Craig's EFI Diagnosis Page. When I found this I had come up with the same thing he had. I replaced all of those sensors just to try to fix the problem and help my car run better in the long run. I did buy the vapor canstor, but lost my car before I could get it on. I had a Pioneer and the dimmer didn't work for me. Well I just hit the link and it didn't work, just try to find it under the name(I know it's there, I have it in my Favorites Center).

[BazBone]

(Money pit Beretta @ Feb. 22 2008,21:32)QUOTELets see, brakes= master cylinder, on the mounts you are right(it could be both), on the idle it could be many things(after I had replaced many sensors,which did help some, I came to the vapor canistor). Try this link http://www.xe.com/leres/efidiag/   it should be Craig's EFI Diagnosis Page. When I found this I had come up with the same thing he had. I replaced all of those sensors just to try to fix the problem and help my car run better in the long run. I did buy the vapor canstor, but lost my car before I could get it on. I had a Pioneer and the dimmer didn't work for me. Well I just hit the link and it didn't work, just try to find it under the name(I know it's there, I have it in my Favorites Center).
Master Cylinder - I was told the same thing, and actually thought it may be the same thing, was hoping not though...  It's just so weird that it would randomly so from working great to dead with no warning.  But then again, that's the way cars work...

Mounts - Yeah, I remember having the tranny mount replaced on my '92, being it's a common problem...

Idle - I will check out that page and get back to you...

I'm glad to see this site still exists...  I know they're old cars, but they're so unique, that even with their quirks, here I am owning another one 6 years later...  On a side note, I just read about your car bro, that REALLY sucks.  People are retarded, and insurance companies are cut throat demons.  I'm dealing with a fender bender that I got into 22 hours after getting the car (An 86 year old woman drove into the side of my car while I was stopped in traffic....), and it's been less than a happy occasion.

I will check into that and let you know.  Thank you!

[BazBone]

Actually, I have one more thing...

The A/C Compressor/Clutch is SHOT.  Griding noise and all.  Is it safe to just pull the plug on it to get it to turn off?  And could that lead to the idle roughness?

And I found the link...  http://www.xse.com/leres/efidiag/

Does it matter that he discusses a 2.8L instead of a 4cyl like I have?

[Money pit Beretta]

No problem man, that's why I'm still at Bnet. Yea, all of this does suck, guess you know that too. Well, you still have your car and that's good news.

[Money pit Beretta]

About the A/C I don't know for sure. The info on Craig's site should have something that would help. I'll have to look it up in the Chilton's, I still think the vapor canstor is what is doing it. Craig's site was just for info so that you wouldn't have to go and do all that we both did again.

[Money pit Beretta]

The compresser should just pull the engine down (had it happen to me on my 83 Camaro, it had more than one belt,so I just cut it off). The only way the compresser should do anything to the idle is if the clutch is going off and on. I've not had the chance to look up anything on the vac set up, I'd bet the main set up is the same. There is a check valve on the vapor canistor. It should open at cruise only, but when it goes bad it will open and close at idle off and on (bet you saw that on Craig's page).

[Luckymc420]

Pulling the plug will do nothing.  It is a bearing in there that is going out.  I have the same problem and I went and bought a new one went away for a few weeks now its back.  I am not sure if you can bypass the AC without a pully.  But thats a cheap way out.

[SuzukiGhostRider]

Brakes-Sounds like a weak booster possibly. Check your vaccum lines for worn or bad hoses.
Intermittent Idle- Could be several things. I would suggest starting by cleaning the following: TB assembly, IAC, TPS, and EGR. If none of this works, get your codes w/the jumper trick or get a parts house to pull them (free).
Pioneer Dimmer Wire: GL with that, was never able to get it to work in any of my cars either. I'm a Pioneer/JVC fan, but not much of a wiring expert.
A/C: Replace the whole compressor unit. Run you about $80 on Ebay.
GL.

[JeffD]

the reason that the dimmer doesn't work on our cars is because the deck is looking for a Pulse width modulated signal, aka digital. our cars only can vary the voltage with a variable resistor style dimmer. new cars are mostly PWM.
If it were a weak booster you would know it, that thing would be hissing. and the complaint wouldn't be a spongy pedal, it would be a hard pedal that doesn't do squat.
if you replace the compressor then you need recharge your AC system. not really the backyard kinda job. Leave this one to the professionals. you would need PAG oil for the compressor, new fitting gaskets, a vacuum pump and R-134a refrigerant. And don't think about getting the stuff from wal-mart to recharge, unless you can get a vacuum on the system.

[SuzukiGhostRider]

U know you're right on the booster 3800. Dunno what I was thinking ,had that one backwards.