Code 42 EST?

john266 · Post by **john266** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:01 pm

I am totally lost on this one. If anyone has any ideas, they would be greatly appreciated. About 2 months ago, the ignition module died in my '90 3.1L. I had it replaced and the car was back to normal up until a week ago. Driving home from school one night, the car just dropped RPMS altogether on the interstate. I finally got the car started again after about 20 minutes and drove it home (all the while with no check engine light). The next day, I put the car on the diagnostic scanner, and it was failing to communicate (indicating that the ECM died). I replaced the ECM (had to change it out about 3 times before I got a good computer from Advance) 2 days ago and the car has been running normal for the most part aside from a rough idle. It seems the more I drive it, the car seems to be running more and more like normal. Today, out of the blue, the check engine comes on (car running like crap in the mean time). I put the diagnostic scanner back on the car, and it is saying a code 42 (electronic spark timing problem).

The only thing I can think of is that either the ignition module I had installed is going bad again, or the ECM is bad (which I dont think it is, because it is communicating fine as far as I can tell). Has anyone ever ran into a similar problem? I am at the point of being so frustrated, that I might have to sell her. Thanks-

Post by **Cliff8928** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 1:09 am

The only things mentioned in the diagnostic procedures for that code are the ECM and ignition module. There are a few tests you can do though.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:58 am

Have you replaced your crank sensor yet? that's another vital timing item.

john266 · Post by **john266** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:48 pm

3X00-Modified wrote:Have you replaced your crank sensor yet? that's another vital timing item.

Crank sensor was replaced about 8 months ago....

hayeri1 · Post by **hayeri1** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:51 pm

If you are concerned about the ignition module, I used to work at Auto Zone, and we had a bench tester for ignition modules that might be worth a try. I don't know if Advance has one. You will still have to pull the module back out for testing.

john266 · Post by **john266** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:38 pm

Heh, the funny part is that I work at Advance. Yes, we have a bench tester too, but for some reason, those testers are not that accurate on the style of ignition module that the Berettas have. When my original one went bad, I took it to work, and it actually tested good. I guess I'm just going to have to let the car sit parked until I have the time to check some things.

hayeri1 wrote:If you are concerned about the ignition module, I used to work at Auto Zone, and we had a bench tester for ignition modules that might be worth a try. I don't know if Advance has one. You will still have to pull the module back out for testing.

yellow3800 · Post by **yellow3800** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:44 am

Keep it simple - all code 42s I've seen had a fluctuating / intermittent ground on that ign. module circuit. we're talking dirty connections, perform wiggle checks, and go that route, it will take a diagnostic tree to keep things less frustrating. I remember it from years ago... circuit 423. wow

andy

john266 · Post by **john266** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 7:57 pm

Believe it or not...I checked all my connections, and someone told me that I should check out my MAP sensor again. My check engine light wasn't coming on, but I replaced the MAP sensor again, and the car seems to be running normal again. I just hope it stays running like it is....

john266 · Post by **john266** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 6:47 pm

UPDATE: After driving the car for a day or so, the car started having intermittent problems during warm up. The car wanted to stall out, and the only way to keep it running was to pretty much floor it. Today a friend and I decided to pull the ignition module (which was installed about 2 months ago) off to see if it was the problem. To my surprise, the contact surface of the module had gotten so hot that the paint on the top of it melted off, and the metallic surface right below the coil packs was a purplish-red color. Apparently the ignition module burnt itself up. Although I have no idea why it burned up, I installed a new module, and the car seems to be running like a top again. Does anyone know of anything that could have caused this? If so, are there preventative measures I can take to prevent it from happening again? That module takes about 2 hours for me to replace and I don't feel like changing it again. LOL

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:37 pm

I always put CPU heat sink grease on the bottom of the ICM where it contacts the mounting plate. From what I've heard that keeps the ICM from getting too hot,going bad and blowing the coils. I'm not sure that it would help you, but it's worth a try. Are you using low Ohm plug wires? Are there any bare wires that are connected to the ICM?
I have lost coils and ICM's before and after I started using the heat sink grease I haven't lost anything. I must say that I did also put on a BWD ICM,BWD wires and MSD coils(before they started making them in China).
If you do put the grease on spread it thin and even. You should use a credit card to do so(just like how you would do it for a computer CPU). No gaps or bare spots. I'm not sure why, but I also put some on top where the coils go.
Just on the metal as I'm sure you know. Bolt the ICM and the coils on with the bracket off the car. Hope all this helps.

john266 · Post by **john266** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:44 pm

Money pit beretta: Actually I did do that today. It looks like the mechanic that put the last module on, didn't even clean it. I found grease and dirt all over the contact plate. I soaked the bracket in carb cleaner til it was completely clean, and applied a thin layer of dielectric grease to the clean contact plate. The only thing I did different was I bolted the plate to the car before I bolted on the module and coils. It seems to be running good now though, so I hope it holds out for me. Thanks again

EDIT: Also, I might add that the ICM is BWD, the wires are brand new Autolites (for some reason I can't find BWD wires almost nowhere anymore), and the coils are stock (i think).

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:33 pm

Don't use that grease! It's not for a heat sink. Go to Radio Shack and get some computer CPU heat sink grease. The dielectric grease will not help when used on the IMC.

Yeah, the last time I bought those wires I asked how many they had left, they said it was the last set. You'll need AC plugs, do not use anything else, other pulgs will cause problems later.

john266 · Post by **john266** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:59 pm

Money pit Beretta wrote:Don't use that grease! It's not for a heat sink. Go to Radio Shack and get some computer CPU heat sink grease. The dielectric grease will not help when used on the IMC.

Yeah, the last time I bought those wires I asked how many they had left, they said it was the last set. You'll need AC plugs, do not use anything else, other pulgs will cause problems later.

Yeah, its got new AC plugs in it now. I think the ICM will be okay regardless, because the mounting plate was spotless when i put it in, and im sure heat transfer will be sufficient. If not, I guess I will be replacing it again in the near future...LOL.

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:24 am

What the hell is a IMC?

I would hate to hear that you had to replace another ICM John. Those things are not cheap. Good to hear that you have AC plugs now and I hope this ends the trouble that you have been going through.

Beretta.net

Code 42 EST?

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