Replacing Starter Motor -> 96 Z26

[bad2407]

Looking to replace my starter motor and looking for some advice. I havent done this before but from doing some reading it doesnt seem all to involved.

Anyway, I was looking under the car to locate the starter motor and couldnt see it. I know stupid question, but could someone give me a clue as to where this motor is?

Also, any general hints or tips on replacing it?

I am getting the intermittent click (once click) when turning the key over and I beleive it is the starter motor. Battery checks good in steady state and under load.
Thanks again!

[heavywoody]

The starter is in the same vicinity as the oil filter; it bolts to the block right where the engine block and trans bolt together.

Installing one is pretty straight forward.

Disconnect the battery first.

Remove the wiring from the end of the starter (should be one 13mm nut holding the battery wire and fusible links onto the solenoid, and either a 8 or 10mm nut holding on the ignition wire).

I can't remember since I haven't touched one on an automatic in over a decade, but I believe the inspection shields need to be removed from the trans (the black plastic pieces surrounding the starter).

Remove the two bolts holding the starter from the block (15mm IIRC).

Pull starter out, and as they say in the manuals, "installation is reverse of removal" lol.

[1988GTU]

Arrow pointing to the cadmium plated looking metal is the starter.

[Slinky]

do yourself a favor and buy a starter from a grand am, i cant remember what years exactly but IIRC they are 1/2 the size and have more torque..

[1988GTU]

99+ or any 3400 sfi should have the mini.

[bad2407]

I appreciate all the replies and information guys. I will be tackling this myself now! Thank you!

[Rettax3]

...The mini starters also have a bad reputation for burning out a LOT faster, especially if you skimp on the quality. I don't personally recommend them. Woody has the details spot-on though, except that it isn't necessary to remove any inspection shields on most 60-degree V-6s (older 3800s, yes). Whichever way you go, I suggest ponying-up the extra dough for a lifetime warranty unit if you will be keeping the car for more than a couple of years.

Have the starter tested at the store before buying a new one -it is worth the extra few minutes to make sure you are buying what you need. It might also help give you more room if you pull the oil-filter, and just get the oil-change out of the way at the same time. If after installation it sounds more like a pneumatic starter (very loud and squeaky), you need another shim between the starter and the block. Good luck.

[Stencil]

Here is a comparison of the new vs. old starter size. The space savings is dramatic (REALLY helps with room) and also they are 8-9lbs lighter. I've never had any issues with failure on the newer style units and would highly recommend them.

[heavywoody]

For the record, I'm on the same mini-starter that Aaron sold me back in 2001-2002. Which was used at that point too.

Rettax3, I'm not sure where you are getting your information regarding the smaller starters burning up, but I have had zero problems with mine.

[Rettax3]

Rettax3, I'm not sure where you are getting your information regarding the smaller starters burning up, but I have had zero problems with mine.

Not everyone does, I'm definitely NOT saying they are guaranteed to fail. But I have replaced almost two times more of the mini starters over the last 10-12 years than the clunky 'ol reliables, and that is really bad considering that the old ones are, well, older, and have thus been in service longer. So, where I've gotten my info is from experience, period. I've had that experience backed-up by reading complaints from other people as well, some of them members here, who have had similar experiences. However, all of it -yours, mine, Stencil's, everyone else' here- is strictly anecdotal, as nothing I've ever read here (or elsewhere for that matter) shows any actual tests on these units to show which type is more reliable, and no one I'm aware of has ever produced statistics on it. I offered my advice for what it is worth. It isn't my money, it isn't my car, I'm not installing it, and I'm not warrantying it, so I don't really care. It was just my two cents. Sorry.

[1988GTU]

I've mostly went thru the gear reduction starters more often than the bigger standard sized starters is when it was used with a battery relocation kit and or a engine bay that has a turbocharger/exhaust not far from it.
The other time one has failed was from a poor cable condition. Too much resistance shortened its life a lot.

[1badz26]

heavywoody: I have a question.

When you say remove the wiring from the end of the starter, do you mean from the starter solenoid?

I dont see any wires attached to the starter itself, but I do see the 13mm nut and the 10mm nut. Just making sure the positive battery cable and other wires you mention attach to the solenoid and not the starter itself.

Also, just want to make sure that the positive battery cable ONLY goes to the starter (solenoid)?

Some idiot put the battery in the trunk and I am also in process of putting it back into the engine bay. Instead of removing the old positive cable from the entire length of the car, I just went and bought a new positive cable and want to run that from the battery in the engine bay to the starter.

Thank you!

[heavywoody]

Yes, the wiring is on the solenoid. The positive battery cable only goes to the starter; the rest of the car is fed from the fusible links at that same point.

[1badz26]

heavywoody -> thank you very much! I want to get this battery back into the engine bay. I beleive the longer positive cable from the starter to the truck is causing issues (intermittent starting).

[1988GTU]

Do you have an added ground from the battery to the rear (trunk) chassis at some point (to not exceed 3' in length) ?
Also, what guage wiring are you using to run from the front of vehicle to the rear?